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Description:© (mjw)

Starts below the bolt ladder in the middle of the Psyncave.

Start: 25m right of VH.

  1. 12m (24) Can be aided at M1. Up to roof, ledge above lip. Could be a bit hard for a move, some think 27.

  2. 3m (-) Step right and into cave.

  3. 30m (-) Through overhang, up and right to scrubby ledge.

  4. 12m (-) Right 15m to corner, up this to bushy ledge.

  5. 30m (12) Up, right, off & out!

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

  • First Ascent: A Penney & G Herbert, 1977

  • First Free Ascent: Mikl Law, 1986

Location:  

Located in Left Side approx:
Long/Lat: 150.282489,-33.733079

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24 Pocket RockGUIDE: New Climbs in the Blue Mountains
24? Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
24 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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