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Description

An olden day classic - historical!

Start: 20m right of FDds on smaller block down and right of the monster?

  1. 35m (13) Wall to ledge below big block, left, then up to belay on top of block.

  2. 30m (15) Big corner to block, move left and up to ledge or continue up crack.

  3. 30m (13) Bulge, then into chimney and up.

Interesting historical note: the monster block that forms the first pitch used to be closer to the wall and higher up, but sometime in the 1970s it slid a couple of metres during a torrential rain storm. Many guidebook descriptions haven't been updated since the FA, causing confusion for many repeat ascentionists.

© (mjw)

Ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Route history

1960

First Ascent: R.kippax & D.Roots, 1960

Location

Lat/Long: -33.73111, 150.28450

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

15 Community registered grade
14 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
15 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
15 David Wawrzonek
15 ** ACA Route Register

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
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Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 76% from 85 ratings

Tick types

Solo
Onsight
Flash

Comment keywords

challenging crux sandbag difficult desperate tough hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet great lovely wicked classic superb awesome incredible super beautiful rad brilliant exciting enjoyable scary runout horrendous chimney rest interesting epic dodgy flake face bad jamming offwidth reachy arete thrutchy easy bail adventurous

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Check out what is happening on Fuddy Duddy (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.