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Description:© (mjw)

An olden day classic - historical!

Start: 20m right of FDds on smaller block down and right of the monster?

  1. 35m (13) Wall to ledge below big block, left, then up to belay on top of block.

  2. 30m (15) Big corner to block, move left and up to ledge or continue up crack.

  3. 30m (13) Bulge, then into chimney and up.

Interesting historical note: the monster block that forms the first pitch used to be closer to the wall and higher up, but sometime in the 1970s it slid a couple of metres during a torrential rain storm. Many guidebook descriptions haven't been updated since the FA, causing confusion for many repeat ascentionists.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: R.kippax & D.Roots, 1960

Location:  

Located in Southern Crag approx:
Lat/Long: -33.731107,150.284503

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
14 ** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
15 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
15 ** ** ACA Route Register
15 **David Wawrzonek

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

challenging crux sandbag difficult desperate tough hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet great wicked classic awesome incredible super beautiful rad brilliant exciting enjoyable scary runout chimney reachy interesting dodgy thrutchy flake easy bad offwidth

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Check out what is happening on Fuddy Duddy (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.