- Height: 80m
- Bolts: 10
- Pitches: 3
- Ascents: 70
- Description:© (mjw)
Start: 18m right of HDYGG.
35m (18) Slab to arete, up this (2 BRs) to ledge (RB belay).
10m (18) Up to traverse line (BR), dangle right (RB) onto small ledge (BBs).
35m (13) Climb up and left to arete then up hanging grey slab (BRs to RB belay).
Abseil down corner on right (facing out) with double 60m ropes. Don't attempt to abseil to the first belay ledge as you'll end up hanging in space.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: A.Penney & J.Nagler, 1978
Located in Southern Crag approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|18||Community registered grade|
|18 **||ACA Route Register|
|18||Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains|
|18||RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains|
Overall quality score: 80%
Learn about creating circuits.
Check out what is happening on On Both Sides of the Glass (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.