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Description:© (nmonteith)

Two pitches covering some exposed and interesting territory. All ringbolts. Rap down to base and start climbing!

Start: Starts 4m left of 'Cave Climb' at left facing corner with U-bolts.

  1. 30m (24) Up short corner, traverse left and over bulge to ledge. Up face above on tiny sideway facing holds to jugs. Wander up face for a few bolts before tricky end move to ledge.

  2. 25m (23) Two wildly differing parts. Steeply through the shale band to right leading crimpy slab. After this finger torture ends thug up the reachy and very steep face above. Belay on ledge.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith & Karen Allen, 2008

Location:  

Located in Left Side approx:
Long/Lat: 150.282489,-33.733079

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Principal
24 * Neil Monteith
24 * * ACA Route Register

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Route quality

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