- Height: 68m
- Pitches: 3
- Ascents: 149
- Description:© (mjw)
Another old classic.
Start: 8m right of BPC. Has a direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.
18m Up grey wall to small corner, right onto slab, traverse right to tree.
20m Cracks to cave (big pro). DRBB
30m Through the cave and hole, or corner outside to chains.
Replaced bolts November 2015
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: Batty, Boyd, Westren & Smith, 1962
Located in Southern Crag approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|13||Community registered grade|
|13 **||ACA Route Register|
|13||RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains|
|13||Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains|
Overall quality score: 77%
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