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Description:© (mjw)
  1. 15m As for Tal to the first ledge. Best combined with pitch 2.

  2. 15m (16) Up awesome crack to ledge on left with questionable carrot and fixed hanger.

  3. 20m (16) Corner to roof, right under this, around lip and up into the chimney on suboptimal rock. Upon topping our you can either create a bomber trad belay in the major crack between two blocks or climb on top of these blocks and belay off two carrots. The trad belay is probably easier from a rope drag perspective.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Location:  

Located in Herbaceous Gully approx:
Lat/Long: -33.734728,150.280770

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
16 ** ACA Route Register
16 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
16 Stuart McElroy
16 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 81%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

challenging crux sustained hard stoked super beautiful fun rad nice perfect good great exciting classic superb awesome scary chimney rest epic roof technical layback short easy chossy jamming bridging fist crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Tol (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.