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Description

A neat little playgroung half way along the Mt.York peninsular. Mainly sport with a few small trad lines. Has 2 sides to the crag. The West Side and the East Side. 'Start spreading the news...'

Park in obvious cleared area opposite the northern 'Historic Wells' sign about 100m before Bardens Lookout.

© (aca_admin)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Park at the Northern entrance of the Historic Wells road. This is 3.6km from the Great Western 'Highway'. If coming from the other direction, the parking spot is 500m southeast from Barden's lookout or 1.1km from the Mt York turning circle. Find the cairn and track located on the opposite side of the rd and walk east down this track for 10 mins to the crag.

© (aca_admin)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
29
878
12m
 Trad,  Sport and other styles
51
1,126
14m
2

Routes

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Grade Route
4
19 Kamikazee Jumbos Trad 15m

Dog-leg crack 20m R of main wall

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2005

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