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The following routes are left to right on the West Side.The section to the left of the Big Tree. Mostly sport but worth bringing a basic rack for the mixed routes.

There has been some very destructive clearing of ferns to add some worthless starts to existing climbs.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Turn left where the track splits at the big falled tree and boulder. Follow around to the left through the scrub until you find the arete of Fox Force 5.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Route located in cave on west (left) side as you approach gully. Sit start beneath overhanging prow. Climb up and finish matched on break.

FFA: Bevan Ashby, 30 Sep 2015

1st route you come to on the western side of the gully.

FA: S.Squires, 1998

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Grab the pinch and punch out left, then crank through steepness to arête. Then up and right to fourth. There are different views on "if the tree is in". If not it's a little thin off the deck, but fun.

Straight up.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Shares a start with 'Are you Loathsome Tonight?'. There is a route before this, and someone has added a direct start but they are quite worthless and an environmental abomination.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Take a small friend for the top and a bolt plate for the first clip, it's rings after that. Hard first move, then some cool and unusual climbing. Definitely worth taking a small rack to the crag. Start: A couple of metres left of the arete - SDS.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

The arete.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Follow the obvious flake lines through much technicality to the top.

FA: S.Squires, 1998

Corner. Traverse right under roof to carrot lower offs?

FA: S.Squires, 2000

Corner and hand crack.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Up face past 3 hangers clip LC anchor

FA: C George, 2007

Start: The wall to arete right of Lyrebird Corner. A cam is possible (recommended) in the obvious crack to alleviate runout.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

The staircase with a hard first step. Newbies beware between the third and fourth and tap the rock above the fourth, it is hollow and sounds it.

Start: Around the arete from FF5.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Hard start and mantle then up a cruisy slab. There are only three bolt brackets on this route and it is runout. Anchors are also brackets, take care of your rope. Gets filthy after rainfall.

FA: degroot, jones & craswell, 2006

FA: jones

FA: Jones & Corkill

FA: P Corkill, Craswell & Jones

FA: DeGroot, Corkill & Jones, 2006

FA: Craswell & DeGroot, 2006

Start: Crack to slab and corner. About 20m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

FA: P.Craswell & A.Jones, 2006

FA: A.Jones & P.Craswell, 2006

FA: C George, 2006

FA: H Sutton, 2006

Rising traverse.

Start: Left hand side of the small gully about 40m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

The route on the wall to the right of FYW.

Start: Traverse right from undercut start and up the arete.

FA: S.Squires, 1996


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