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Table of contents

1. West (Left) Side 30 routes in Sector

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.227257, -33.557633

Description:© (mjw)

The following routes are left to right on the West Side.The section to the left of the Big Tree. Mostly sport but worth bringing a basic rack for the mixed routes.

There has been some very destructive clearing of ferns to add some worthless starts to existing climbs.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (mjw)

Turn left where the track splits at the big falled tree and boulder. Follow around to the left through the scrub until you find the arete of Fox Force 5.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Fun Buns

Route located in cave on west (left) side as you approach gully. Sit start beneath overhanging prow. Climb up and finish matched on break.

FFA: @bevanashby, 2015

V10 Boulder 3m
2 * Meltdown Town

1st route you come to on the western side of the gully.

FA: S.Squires, 1998

23 Sport 8m
3 ** Plastic Surgery Disasters

FA: S.Squires, 1996

24 Sport 8m
4 ** #11 22 Sport 10m
5 Direct Start (Are You Loathsome Tonight?)

Grab the pinch and punch out left, then crank through steepness to arête. Then up and right to fourth. There are different views on "if the tree is in". If not it's a little thin off the deck, but fun.

22 Sport 12m, 8
6 Are You Loathsome Tonight?

Straight up.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

18 Sport 12m
7 Landmines for Line-Dancers

Shares a start with Are you Loathsome Tonight. There is a route before this, and someone has added a direct start but they are quite worthless and an environmental abomination.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

17 Sport 12m
8 Schizophrenic Sideburns

Take a small friend for the top and a bolt plate for the first clip, it's rings after that. Hard first move, then some cool and unusual climbing. Definitely worth taking a small rack to the crag. Start: A couple of metres left of the arete - SDS.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

17 Sport 12m
9 ** Spanking De Sade

The arete.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

21 Sport 12m
10 ** The End of Silence

FA: S.Squires, 1998

24 Sport 12m
11 ** The Ita Buttrose Spreadmill Route

Corner. Traverse right under roof to carrot lower offs?

FA: S.Squires, 2000

16 Trad 12m
12 Lyrebird Corner

Corner and hand crack.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

16 Trad 12m
13 * Ballistica

Up face past 3 hangers clip LC anchor

FA: C George, 2007

21 Sport 12m
14 * Fox Force 5

Start: The wall to arete.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

17 Sport 12m
15 Spoonbender

The staircase with a hard first step. Newbies beware between the third and fourth and tap the rock above the fourth, it is hollow and sounds it.

Start: Around the arete from FF5.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

15 Sport 12m, 7
16 Illusory

Hard start and mantle then up a cruisy slab. There are only three bolt brackets on this route and it is runout. Anchors are also brackets, take care of your rope. Gets filthy after rainfall.

FA: degroot,jones,craswell, 2006

19 Sport 14m, 5
17 Winter Slab

FA: jones

14 Trad 12m
18 Nice Root

FA: Jones,Corkill

7 Trad 12m
19 Life's Pretty Straight

FA: P Corkill,Craswell,Jones

18 Trad 15m
20 Synchronicity

FA: DeGroot,Corkill,Jones, 2006

18 Trad 15m
21 Factotum

FA: Craswell,DeGroot, 2006

17 Trad 15m
22 * Shovelling Out the Paupers

Start: Crack to slab and corner. Abought 20m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

17 Trad 15m
23 Good Morning Mr Jones

FA: P.Craswell,A.Jones, 2006

12 Trad 14m
24 Furtwangler

FA: A.Jones,P.Craswell, 2006

8 Trad 14m
25 Project 1 project Unknown
26 Unknown 24 Sport 15m
27 ** Tight Like a Tiger

FA: C George, 2006

16 Unknown 10m
28 Ninja Penguins

FA: H Sutton, 2006

13 Unknown 10m
29 ** Flip Your Wig

Rising traverse.

Start: Left hand side og the small gully about 40m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

22 Sport 10m
30 ** The Outsider

The route on the wall to the right of FYW.

Start: Traverse right from undercut start and up the arete.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

23 Sport 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 Nice Root Trad 12m
8 Furtwangler Trad 14m
12 Good Morning Mr Jones Trad 14m
13 Ninja Penguins Unknown 10m
14 Winter Slab Trad 12m
15 Spoonbender Sport 12m, 7
16 Lyrebird Corner Trad 12m
** The Ita Buttrose Spreadmill Route Trad 12m
** Tight Like a Tiger Unknown 10m
17 Factotum Trad 15m
* Fox Force 5 Sport 12m
Landmines for Line-Dancers Sport 12m
Schizophrenic Sideburns Sport 12m
* Shovelling Out the Paupers Trad 15m
18 Are You Loathsome Tonight? Sport 12m
Life's Pretty Straight Trad 15m
Synchronicity Trad 15m
19 Illusory Sport 14m, 5
21 * Ballistica Sport 12m
** Spanking De Sade Sport 12m
22 ** #11 Sport 10m
Direct Start (Are You Loathsome Tonight?) Sport 12m, 8
** Flip Your Wig Sport 10m
23 * Meltdown Town Sport 8m
** The Outsider Sport 12m
24 ** Plastic Surgery Disasters Sport 8m
** The End of Silence Sport 12m
Unknown Sport 15m
V10 ** Fun Buns Boulder 3m
project Project 1 Unknown