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Description:

On the right side, the east, of the small creek.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
45Upper Tier Cliff Trad,Sport and Aid 713220m

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Project 1
project
Sport
2 * Mosh

FA: S.Squires, 1986

23
Sport 10m
3 * Wargasm

Start as for Mosh and traverse left along the break. A rack of cams is handy.

FA: S.Squires,J.Ryan, 1997

23
Trad 15m
4 Project 2
project
Unknown
5 Unknown 0
16
Unknown 10m
6 Unknown 1

2 carrots and cams / wires, lower off / belay off tree.

Start: 15 meters left of preceding climbs

FA: Unknown, 2000

14
Trad 10m
7 Unknown 2

2 carrots, cams /wires. Lower off tree / belay off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 1.

15
Trad 10m
8 Unknown 3

2 carrots, cams / wires. Lower off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 2.

FA: Unknown, 2000

15
Trad 10m
9 Tall Dwarfs

Start: This and the following 2 routes are on the uninspiring wall with the overhanging dinner plates.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

18
Trad 10m
10 Terror Couple Kill Colonel

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

18
Trad 10m
11 Deathburger Highway

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

18
Trad 10m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
12 Satanic Nuns

Start: 'Small' wall facing the main wall.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

20
Sport 15m
13 * Cosmic Gall

Start: The dirty corner/ramp to the left of SN.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

15
Trad 15m
14 ** Libby the Lick

Dec 2012 update: ledge between bolt 1 and 2 has disintergrated. Now dirty and needs attention before its climbable again.

Awesome.

Start: The 1st route on the main wall.

FA: S.Squires, 1997

24
Sport 15m
15 ** Mr Stagger Lee

FA: S.Squires,P.Lawlor, 1997

23
Sport 15m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
16 ** Moan Groan Dial Tone

Start: On the slab 4m left of LL. Up the water scoop.

FA: P.Lawlor,M.Spinaze, 1996

22
Sport 15m
17 Exploding Budgies

Start: As for MGDT, then travese up and left to the far left anchors.

FA: S.Squires,M.Spinaze, 1996

19
Sport 15m
18 * Silence of the Cams

Start: 3m left of MGDT. head straight up to anchors.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

19
Sport 15m
19 The Reprieve

Start: The arete about 5m left of SoC.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

19
Sport 15m
20 It's Crap Ray No.1
6
Unknown 10m
21 No Name
13
Unknown 10m
22 It's Crap Ray No.2
6
Sport 10m
23 Ray's Toupee
13
Sport 10m
24 * Wowza

up flake the left and through rooflet to crack

FA: C George, 2006

19
Unknown 20m
25 Brooklyn
21
Sport 12m
26 Manhattan
18
Sport 12m
27 Karmic Block
15
Unknown 12m
28 New Rose (in Town)
8
Sport 10m
29 Islamic Cowgirls Cry "Jeehad!"
17
Sport 10m
30 Jewish Cowboys Yell "(Netan) Yahoo"
20
Sport 10m
31 Morris Chopsuey
17
Unknown 15m
32 *** Zadok the Priest
23
Sport 15m
33 * Metamorphosis
20
Sport 15m
34 * Mr Chippy
21
Sport 12m
35 Cranky Monkey

FA: John Croker, Mike Patterson, 2003

17
Unknown 15m
36 Lilly the Pink

FA: Mike Patterson, John Croker, 2003

14
Unknown 12m
37 * Floyd the Barber
15
Unknown 15m
38 Patterson's Pinnacle

FA: Mike Patterson, John Croker, 2003

14
Unknown 9m
39 ** The Raconteur
21
Sport 15m
40 The Worl According to RURP
15
Unknown 15m
41 * Welsh Catharsis
21
Unknown 40m
42 Tombei the Mist
20
Unknown 20m
43 Project 3
project
Unknown
44 Tofu & Vegies

Done ground up / onsite. Follow the seams and cracks heading generally straight up. Walk off and lower from tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 3.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2009

18
Trad 10m