Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

On the right side, the east, of the small creek.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
project Project 1 Sport
2
23 * Mosh Sport 10m

FA: S.Squires, 1986

3
23 * Wargasm Trad 15m

Start as for Mosh and traverse left along the break. A rack of cams is handy.

FA: S.Squires,J.Ryan, 1997

4
project Project 2 Unknown
5
16 Unknown 0 Mixed 10m, 2

Two small/rusted looking carrots which are hard to spot and some gear to tree.

Start 15 meters left of preceding climbs on the right hand side of the wall near the arete.

6
14 Unknown 1 Mixed 10m, 2

2 carrots and cams / wires, lower off / belay off tree.

Start a couple of meters left of 'Unknown 0'

FA: Unknown, 2000

7
15 Unknown 2 Mixed 10m, 2

2 carrots, cams /wires. Lower off tree / belay off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of 'Unknown 1'

8
15 Unknown 3 Mixed 10m, 2

2 carrots, cams / wires. Lower off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of 'Unknown 2'.

FA: Unknown, 2000

9
18 Tall Dwarfs Trad 10m

Start: This and the following 2 routes are on the uninspiring wall with the overhanging dinner plates.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

10

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

11

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

12
20 Satanic Nuns Sport 15m

Start: Small wall facing the main wall.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

13
15 * Cosmic Gall Trad 15m

Start: The dirty corner/ramp to the left of SN.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

14
24 ** Libby the Lick Sport 15m

Dec 2012 update: ledge between bolt 1 and 2 has disintergrated. Now dirty and needs attention before its climbable again.

Awesome.

Start: The 1st route on the main wall.

FA: S.Squires, 1997

15
23 ** Mr Stagger Lee Sport 15m

FA: S.Squires,P.Lawlor, 1997

16
22 ** Moan Groan Dial Tone Sport 15m

Start: On the slab 4m left of 'Libby the Lick'. Up the water scoop.

FA: P.Lawlor,M.Spinaze, 1996

17
19 Exploding Budgies Sport 15m

Start: As for MGDT, then traverse up and left to the far left anchors crossing SOTC.

FA: S.Squires,M.Spinaze, 1996

18
19 * Silence of the Cams Sport 15m, 5

Start: 3m left of MGDT. Head straight up to anchors.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

19
19 The Reprieve Sport 15m

Start: The arete about 5m left of SOTC.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

20

FFA: S Squires, 1996

21
13 No Name Trad 10m
22

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

23
13 Ray's Toupee Trad 10m

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

24
19 * Wowza Trad 20m

Up flake the left and through rooflet to crack

FA: C George, 2006

25
21 Brooklyn Sport 12m

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

26
18 Manhattan Sport 12m

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

27
15 Karmic Block Trad 12m

FFA: S. Squires, D. Geraghy, 1996

28

FFA: S. Squires, 1999

29

The right hand side of the slabby face about 50m left of previous route.

FFA: D. Geraghy, S. Squires, 1996

30

Start just left of ICCJ.

Has no anchor. So either carefully traverse to the ICCJ anchor or climb back down.

FFA: S. Squires, D. Geraghy, 1996

31
17 Morris Chopsuey Trad 15m

FFA: S. Squires, D. Hartley, 1996

32
23 *** Zadok the Priest Sport 15m
33
20 * Metamorphosis Sport 15m
34
21 * Mr Chippy Sport 12m
35
17 Cranky Monkey Unknown 15m

FA: John Croker, Mike Patterson, 2003

36
14 Lilly the Pink Unknown 12m

FA: Mike Patterson, John Croker, 2003

37
15 * Floyd the Barber Unknown 15m
38
14 Patterson's Pinnacle Unknown 9m

FA: Mike Patterson, John Croker, 2003

39
21 ** The Raconteur Sport 15m
41
21 * Welsh Catharsis Unknown 40m
42
20 Tombei the Mist Unknown 20m
43
project Project 3 Unknown
44
18 Tofu & Vegies Trad 10m

Done ground up / onsite. Follow the seams and cracks heading generally straight up. Walk off and lower from tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 3.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2009

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Upper Tier Cliff
7
142
20m