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Description

On the right side, the east, of the small creek. Some very good steeper climbing and a couple of nice face climbs.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Turn right where the track splits at the big fallen tree and boulder. Follow obvious track up and around the boulder, keep going until you see the nice curved overhanging wall where you'll find Moan Groan Dial Tone and Silence of the Cams etc.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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FA: S.Squires, 1986

Start as for Mosh and traverse left along the break. A rack of cams is handy.

FA: S.Squires & J.Ryan, 1997

Two small/rusted looking carrots which are hard to spot and some gear to tree.

Start 15 meters left of preceding climbs on the right hand side of the wall near the arete.

2 carrots and cams / wires, lower off / belay off tree.

Start a couple of meters left of 'Unknown 0'

FA: Unknown, 2000

2 carrots, cams /wires. Lower off tree / belay off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of 'Unknown 1'

2 carrots, cams / wires. Lower off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of 'Unknown 2'.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Start: This and the following 2 routes are on the uninspiring wall with the overhanging dinner plates.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Start: Small wall facing the main wall.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Start: The dirty corner/ramp to the left of SN.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Dec 2012 update: ledge between bolt 1 and 2 has disintergrated. Now dirty and needs attention before its climbable again.

Awesome.

Start: The 1st route on the main wall.

FA: S.Squires, 1997

FA: S.Squires & P.Lawlor, 1997

Start: On the slab 4m left of 'Libby the Lick'. Up the water scoop.

FA: P.Lawlor & M.Spinaze, 1996

Start: As for MGDT, then traverse up and left to the far left anchors crossing SOTC.

FA: S.Squires & M.Spinaze, 1996

Start: 3m left of MGDT. Head straight up to anchors.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Start: The arete about 5m left of SOTC.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

FFA: S Squires, 1996

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

Up flake the left and through rooflet to crack

FA: C George, 2006

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

FFA: S. Squires & D. Geraghy, 1996

FFA: S. Squires, 1999

The right hand side of the slabby face about 50m left of previous route.

FFA: D. Geraghy & S. Squires, 1996

Start just left of ICCJ.

Has no anchor. So either carefully traverse to the ICCJ anchor or climb back down.

FFA: S. Squires & D. Geraghy, 1996

FFA: S. Squires & D. Hartley, 1996

FA: John Croker & Mike Patterson, 2003

FA: Mike Patterson & John Croker, 2003

FA: Mike Patterson & John Croker, 2003

Done ground up / onsite. Follow the seams and cracks heading generally straight up. Walk off and lower from tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 3.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2009

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