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Description

These routes are on the upper cliffline. Can be accessed via a gully to the left of Islamic Cowgirls - there's also a track that skirts the upper cliffline but it encroaches on 'private property' so please be discrete.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The line of rings and a thread just left of the corner up to DRBB lower-off.

The bolts are in a straight line but the climb wanders. Start up the corner, traverse to clip the 1st bolt then return 2m right and up to cave, traverse horizontally past 2nd bolt and up 2m left of 3rd bolt to thread, can supplement with cams. Clip 4th bolt and easier ground left to large ledge. Runout unnerving sandy rounded edges up to lower-offs,.

FA: J Allwood & C Allwood, 1999

Name says it all. You can traverse to 'Bela Lugosi' anchors to get off.

FA: J Smoothy, 1980

Single ring lower-off!

Start: Start 2m left of 'Nudity'.

FA: P Lawler & P Beggs, 2000

Good climb. Undercut start at large gum tree. 7 ring bolts up to DRBB lower-offs. Take 2 yellow (BD #2) cams to protect the 4-5m runout either side of the last bolt, also take 3 extra quickdraws to extend the 2 cams and 1 bolt under a lip. A 50m rope is sufficient for lowering with ~4m spare.

FA: S Squires & D Geraghty, 1997

The obvious undercut crack. Head for a fixed hanger on a sharp nose then left and finish up 'Nudity'.

FA: J Clark, 1998

When you scramble up from the lower cliffline you arrive under a nice orange and grey wall. Up the rounded undercut arete at the right end of this wall, heading right. Watch out for loose block.

FA: J Allwood & P Beggs, 2000

20m right of Route Rustler is a short dog leg crack, that is trickier than it appears.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2005

50m L of the Tower of Song wall is a high, hanging arete. This route traverses R out the lip of the roof towards the arete then up to DRBB. One carrot and two U-bolts.

FA: Presumably Saul Squires?

About 5m left of previous route is an orange wall with messy glue-in FHs leading to an upper bulge, complete with tatty tape thread.

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