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Routes as trad in New York

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Showing all 40 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
9 The Little Corner That's Been Climbed

Low-angled corner with plenty of placements, and more to be cleaned. Burnt tree anchors above wall of burnt scree. FA please name and claim.

Trad 12m Blue Mountains
19 th(rush)

Start: Between The Reprieve and SOTC.

Low angled corner crack to ledge below overhanging wide section and narrow topout. Medium gear and extend belay from tree 5m back to ledge on left to avoid rope jamming in notch.

No doubt climbed before, FA please name and claim.

Trad 17m Blue Mountains
Single Carrot Arete

Runout is an understatement. Single carrot ~5m up.

Mixed trad 1 Blue Mountains
19 Kamikazee Jumbos

20m right of Route Rustler is a short dog leg crack, that is trickier than it appears.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2005

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
18 Tofu & Vegies

Done ground up / onsite. Follow the seams and cracks heading generally straight up. Walk off and lower from tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 3.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2009

Trad 10m Blue Mountains
19 Kamikazee Jumbos

please delete me - duplicate

FA: 2005

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
19 Bela Lugosi

The line of rings and a thread just left of the corner up to DRBB lower-off.

The bolts are in a straight line but the climb wanders. Start up the corner, traverse to clip the 1st bolt then return 2m right and up to cave, traverse horizontally past 2nd bolt and up 2m left of 3rd bolt to thread, can supplement with cams. Clip 4th bolt and easier ground left to large ledge. Runout unnerving sandy rounded edges up to lower-offs,.

FA: J Allwood & C Allwood, 1999

Mixed trad 25m, 4 Blue Mountains
6 When Jellyfish Go Schmuck

Start: On arete of right boulder.

Clean tufas and pinches with maybe a couple of shallow or offset cams.

FA: H.Sutton, Jones & Craswell, 2006

Trad 10m Blue Mountains
7 Computer Says Yes

Start: On right of left boulder.

Relatively clean runnels.

FA: A.Jones, Sutton & Craswell, 2006

Trad 12m Blue Mountains
14 Ring of Fire

Start: On left boulder, 1m left of Computer Says Yes, perhaps at large crack.

Reverted to lichen and probably best left that way. Guide says two bolts but none seen.

FA: P.Craswell, Jones & Sutton, 2006

Trad 12m Blue Mountains
19 The Big Corner

Name says it all. You can traverse to 'Bela Lugosi' anchors to get off.

FA: J Smoothy, 1980

Trad 25m Blue Mountains
15 The Worl According to RURP
Trad 15m Blue Mountains
21 Route Rustler

The obvious undercut crack. Head for a fixed hanger on a sharp nose then left and finish up 'Nudity'.

FA: J Clark, 1998

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Blue Mountains
15 Karmic Block

FFA: S. Squires & D. Geraghy, 1996

Trad 12m Blue Mountains
8 New Rose (in Town)

FFA: S. Squires, 1999

Trad 10m Blue Mountains
17 Morris Chopsuey

FFA: S. Squires & D. Hartley, 1996

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
6 It's Crap Ray No.1

Start: 1m right of arete.

3m steps to carrot then a few chances for nuts in notches, slings, and 2 cams to intact tree belay.

FFA: S Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Blue Mountains
13 Not So Crap

Start: 3m left of "It's Crap Ray No.1" at smaller tree. 3m to rusty carrot then possible nuts in notches and slings to ledge, stainless carrot 2m up (crux) then another nut/sling to top and single galvanised glue-in carrot anchor.

[Renamed: the only thing worse than Crap is Unknown - Ed.]

Mixed trad 10m, 2 Blue Mountains
6 It's Crap Ray No.2

Start: At flake/corner.

Corner with wires to ledge with rusty carrot hidden behind jug next to bomber sling (former belay?), then a few notches to the top and carrot anchor.

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Blue Mountains
19 Wowza

Up flake the left and through rooflet to crack

FA: C George, 2006

Trad 20m Blue Mountains
15 Two Carrots Orange

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

Mixed trad 10m, 2 Blue Mountains
15 Two Carrots Yellow

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

FA: 2000

Mixed trad 10m, 2 Blue Mountains
18 Tall Dwarfs

Start: This and the following 2 routes are on the uninspiring wall with the overhanging dinner plates.

Up finger crack then over roof with rings.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 2 Blue Mountains
18 Terror Couple Kill Colonel

Up slab to roof with a wire placement between the first and second bolts. Finish at DBB

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 6 Blue Mountains
18 Deathburger Highway

Start at large stringybark. Up past carrot and large bird's nest in alcove past overhang with broken holds to thin huge rings.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Mixed trad 10m, 3 Blue Mountains
15 Cosmic Gall

Start: The dirty corner/ramp to the left of SN. Carrot at overhung crux.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 1 Blue Mountains
14 Two Carrots Red

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

FA: 2000

Mixed trad 10m, 2 Blue Mountains
8 Furtwangler

FA: A.Jones & P.Craswell, 2006

Trad 14m Blue Mountains
12 Good Morning Mr Jones

FA: P.Craswell & A.Jones, 2006

Trad 14m Blue Mountains
23 Wargasm

Start as for Mosh and traverse left along the break. A rack of cams is handy.

FA: S.Squires & J.Ryan, 1997

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
16 Two Carrots Purple

Start: 1m left of the arete.

Single SS glue-in carrot at the top, and a minor rooflet and arete, which the other three carrot climbs on this wall do not.

Mixed trad 10m, 2 Blue Mountains
16 Lyrebird Corner

Corner and hand crack.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Trad 12m Blue Mountains
16 The Ita Buttrose Spreadmill Route

Corner. Traverse right under roof to ring bolt lower offs. Don't see how this is a 16. (It does appear that some holds have broken off around waist level.)

FA: S.Squires, 2000

Trad 12m Blue Mountains
17 Schizophrenic Sideburns

Take a small friend for the top and a bolt plate for the first clip, it's rings after that. Hard first move, then some cool and unusual climbing. Definitely worth taking a small rack to the crag. Start: A couple of metres left of the arete - SDS.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Mixed trad 12m, 4 Blue Mountains
17 Shovelling Out the Paupers

Start: Crack to slab and corner. About 20m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
17 Factotum

FA: Craswell & DeGroot, 2006

Mixed trad 15m, 4 Blue Mountains
18 Synchronicity

Up fingercrack (gear available), negotiating small rooflet to fixed hanger, then straight on up the line of bolts.

FA: DeGroot, Corkill & Jones, 2006

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Blue Mountains
18 Life's Pretty Straight

FA: P Corkill, Craswell & Jones

Mixed trad 15m, 4 Blue Mountains
7 Nice Root

FA: Jones & Corkill

Trad 12m Blue Mountains
14 Winter Slab

FA: jones

Trad 12m Blue Mountains

Showing all 40 routes.

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