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Areas with some big time air and big time sun. This crag gets sun from dawn until about 4pm in winter, so if its sunny you definitely want cool air temps or a breeze. In summer, it goes into the shade at 3pm.

© (Macciza)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!

© (Macciza)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Corner to left of 'I Forget'

FA: Project Mac, 2000

23 I Forget Trad

Up slab left of Red Edges final pitch

May need gear at end or rebolt.

Start: Do first rap for 'Red Edge' and you can't miss it.

FA: Mac N Zac, 2005

25 *** Red Edge Mixed 190m, 6, 20

Stunning and varied adventurous arete climbing of consistently high quality. Some very spaced gear in sections.

Access by rapping down A Date with Density, and traversing carefully to the right (facing out) along the base of the cliff.

Alternatively, rap 200m down the South-East side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a Casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots.

Bring a double rack of Cams, and Bolt Plates.

  1. 40m (23) - Use a wire to stick-clip the first Carrot Bolt (very hard moves off the ground). Up knife-blade arete-feature and technical face above, wandering around a bit to find gear and climb the line of least resistance. DBB.

  2. 40m (25 or 22M0) - Very hard bouldery start of the belay (or pull on a single bolt). Head right to the arete, and climb the left side of the arete on very spaced gear to a major horizontal break. Head back left at this break to carrot, then up trending towards the arete following carrots and gear. DBB.

  3. 30m (23) - Climb the tricky slab on the right side of the arete past 3 carrots, then up trending left via slightly steep technical face climbing. DBB.

  4. 25m (25 or 24M0) - Climb carefully up rotten rock to a very high carrot, and up to ring. Clip 2nd ring out left of undercut roof. Either aid on this bolt to gain the next and free from here (24M0) or climb up to the right of the FIRST ring until above it, traverse back left, then DOWN to the 3rd ring. Exciting (and photogenic) moves to gain and turn the arete, then up face on left-side of arete past 2 more carrots and gear. DBB.

  5. 35m (24) - Sustained power-endurance climbing up the left side of the arete past 4 bolts and gear. Bolt & tree belay.

  6. 20m (10) - Scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.

FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999


Climb the arete at the left end of the ledge to another small ledge. Some bouldery moves to regain the arete.

FA: Zac Vertrees

29 *** Parched Sport

AWESOME 'Steep', exposed.

FA: Zac & Mac, 2005

PROJECT 1 Sport 3


27 *** Stiletto Sport 200m, 6

An absolute rip-snorter; sustained pumping on the finest baked sandstone the Grose has to offer. Climbable any time of the year depending on whether you want shade or sun. Summer sun 10:30am till 2pm (you can start early and have a siesta atop P3, where there is some shade on the left end); winter sun till 3'ish.

Walk the usual route out of the car park as if you were heading to ADWD. At the bottom of the small cliff band, head right briefly and then angle downhill toward the cliff edge. You should see the odd cairn. After 50m or so you will be at the cliff edge where there is a small ledge with a double bolt belay, 10m left of the rap station for RE.

A 200m rope will get you to the ground. There are three rope-capture devices to keep the rope running clear of any rock on the upper slab, the first a meter below the rap anchor, another 8-10m over the edge and left, and then a third 20m lower where the cliff cuts under. If you are doing multiple abseils, there is a single fixed quickdraw 10m further down. You will need to clip this and kick off the wall in order to reach the P4/P5 belay station 15m lower, from which point you can clip-and-kick between the routes belay stations.

Walking to the base of the route is an easy option, as described for the TRR.

  1. 40m (26) - The obvious blunt grey arete 20-30m to the right of RE. Start on the left face to gain the arête by the third bolt. Wrestle the arête until it peters out and continue up the face to a stance in the corner above the height of the sandy cave.

  2. 40m (26)- Traverse left a few moves off the belay, up another couple of bolts, and then move back right to a bolt and follow the orange streak. Continue up and gently leftward to turn the obvious roof at its left end. Climb up 10m or so to gain the large rocky ledge. Clip the high bolt to make a double bolt belay.

  3. 30m (26) - Climb the middle of the orange face several meters left of the belay (between REV and RE) to reach a sandy break where there is a tricky move around the roof. Follow the bolts up the middle of the prow. The variant of RE (27) mostly follows the left side of the arete, though the two pitches share a couple of holds at the large flake in the middle. At the top of this pitch it's easiest to belay from the anchor at the left end of the ledge.

  4. 30m (26) - You will need to be at the anchor on the right end of the ledge. Climb the line of bolts moving rightward (a few meters more than you think you should have to) before heading up. The route moves around a little but gradually makes it’s way back to the left to gain the belay

  5. 25m (27) - A tricky start gets you moving on to the obvious break heading rightward. Traverse four bolts (not including the single bolt immediately above the anchor, which is a directional for the belayer) and head up toward the obvious blank shield, 3-4m higher, with just a pad-sized flake up its middle. Climb the shield to a small roof and move right for several meters. Follow the bolts diagonally rightward to a good stance.

  6. 40m (23) - Climb to the left, keeping your feet low, until you can step up and on to the orange wall above, moving left at the roof to gain easy slab climbing to the final anchor.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2015

PROJECT 2 Sport 2


22 * Moonlight Corner Trad 180m

BIG corner system visible to the west from the top of Zac's route. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin.

FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000

25 *** The Regular Route Sport 190m, 7

One of the first lines bolted at Perry's Lookdown, and one of the finest moderate multipitches in the Blueys. This recently freed route tackles the stunning aretes on the LEFT side of a major buttress.

Access by either abseil or walk in. Both options require a similar time investment however the walk in allows you to carry less gear (a single rope) and NOT view the routes during the descent. Walk in - Follow the trail into the Grose Valley toward Blue Gum Forest. Once through the cliff line a prominent free-standing pillar becomes visible to the left of the trail. Continue past this for a further 150m then make your way left along the many tiers of small cliff lines staying on a relatively consistent contour. After approximately 5 minutes you will cross a large landslide. At this point make your way to and then along the base of the main cliff line. Another few minutes will have you at the base of Red Edge and Stilietto, from here skirt the base of the small amphitheatre to arrive at the base of the next set of routes The Regular Route, Upstaged and Date With Density. Abseil - Rap down A Date with Density (all the way to the lower tier - 135m of fixed ropes will get you to the last abseil, and a 60m rope will get you to the lower tier). Start on line of rings 15m left of A Date with Density.

  1. 20m (23) - Enjoyable face and arete climbing.

  2. 30m (25) - A brilliant pitch of thought provoking slab climbing. Originally graded 24 and probably not dissimilar in style or difficulty to many other old school 24's around the Mountains. From the belay ledge make your way slightly right and up following the meandering line of bolts up the beautiful orange slab. (An additional bolt has been added to this pitch due to concern around a potential ledge fall. The pitch remains sportingly bolted yet safe.)

  3. 20m (24) - A short but technical pitch. From the belay head left and climb the face and arete to the base of a small rooflet. At this point climb around the arete and make your way up the face and corner until you are able to return rightward to the arete. Follow arete to the next belay ledge.

  4. 20m (21) - The route begins to feel airy at this point. From the belay head left into the corner following this upward until an improbable rising traverse allows access across the face and up the arete to belay ledge.

  5. 30m (24) - Follow the stunning left arete on perfect orange rock.

  6. 30m (22) - A tricky start leads to some steep glory jugs in a wildly exposed position. Move awkwardly up and off the right side of the belay ledge following grey rock up a short slab before moving back left onto the arete and up the steep jugs.

  7. 40m (23) - Interesting climbing on more excellent rock. As for A Date with Density Pitch 5 - Navigate your way up and rightward on the scoopy red rock then head straight up the low angled grey rock to the finish.

Set by Justin Clark & lee cossey, 2002

FA: lee cossey, 2015

28 *** Upstaged Sport 230m, 7

Climbs the RIGHT side arete and face of a proud buttress.

Access by abseiling down A Date with Density. Starts 2m left of A Date with Density.

  1. 40m (26)

  2. 30m (23)

  3. 30m (28)

  4. 45m (28)

  5. 30m (24) - As per The Regular Route

  6. 30m (24) - As per The Regular Route

  7. 35m (23) - As for A Date with Density Pitch 5.

FA: lee cossey, 2015

25 *** A Date with Density Sport 200m, 5

Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in Summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water.

Start: Walk down 100m as for 'Red Edge' and walk west 50m along under small cliff, scramble down 2nd gully, follow rope to top rap anchor.

  1. 35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete

  2. 45m (22) Climb main corner , up corner and out right to arêtes

  3. 25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void

  4. 45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Bleay on left end of legde

  5. 45m (23) Right and up to rap station

FA: Ado & Mikl, 2000

22 ** Fat Yak Sport 100m, 3

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perry's! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor with white tape. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

  1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

  2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

  3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

FA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2009

24 ** The Rap Star Sport 50m, 20

A mega long single pitch of pumpy orange jugs and limestoney rock. Climbs the wall you rap down from the top of A Date With Density past a bizzilion bolts. Reachy crux.

Starts at rap anchor 50m down the wall (as for the belay for 'Fat Yak' pitch 2).

FA: Neil Monteith & Vanessa Wills

22 *** The Yak bites Back Sport 55m, 2

The top 2 pitches of BB, but a rad route on its own. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in as for DwD. Belay on ledge just above white sling.

  1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2009


A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22.

  1. 30m (22) First pitch of 'Beggars Banquet'. Belay off large tree then scramble up left to...

  2. 45m (22) 2nd pitch of Date with Density to hanging belay.

  3. 10m (8) Traverse right to join into 'Fat Yak' pitch 1.

  4. 40m (22) Fat Yak pitch 1

  5. 40m (22) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 5.

  6. 15m (21) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 6

24 ** Beggars Banquet Sport 160m, 6

A few tasty morsels pinched from under the probing eyes of the locals. Climbs face right of DwD. Varied climbing with a different style on every pitch. The top two pitches are worth doing in their own right as a three star route, with simple single 50m rap access.

Start: Rap to ground via 4 x 50m raps as for Date With Density.

  1. 30m (22) Best pitch of the route! 'Steep' right facing flake to start then continuous pumpy climbing to finish on ledge with large tree belay.

  2. 15m (17) Scramble un-roped 20m up left to large ledge. Rope up again then ditty right across face to enter hand crack, and up it to ledge below corner. Belay off large tree and single ring.

  3. 20m (24) Wildly contorted. Couple of chossy moves to enter steep stemming corner, out right under roof to small ledge. Out right again and onto thin face. Up to hanging belay (same belay below P3 of DwD)

  4. 40m (24) Layaway up right leading very thin seam for 20m, then join into 'Fat Yak' P1 for 20m of easier slab past two ugly horizontals to comfy bolt belay on small ledge (the higher of the two set of anchors)

  5. 40m (22) Da pumper pitch. Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  6. 15m (21) Orange rock mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewllin

20 ** Never Say Never Trad 110m

The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between 'Slipstream' and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: Bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.

FA: Wilson & B Harington, 1999

22 * Never Never Land Mixed 65m, 2, 5

These are good additions for "Never Say Never". A Suggestion is to do "The Circuit" If climbing on single rope leave fixed rope on huge gum tree below "Slip Stream". Climb first 2 pitches of "Down Stream" Rap back down fixed rope, then climb "Never Never Land " walk along ledge and retrieve rap rope then climb "Never Say Never". A great 7 pitch day with a nice warm up.

Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

Start: 55m below the start of Never say never is an alcove, left arete

  1. 25m (22) 25m Up arête past 3 carrots and natural pro, pul through roof then up crack to belay on small ledge at tree plus no 1 cams 2m above.

  2. 40m (20) Up crack, then continue up slabby arête past friends & 2 carrots, a no. 2 friend in slot on left of arête protects move to stance on right hand side of small roof, no.½ friend. Traverse under roof then climb left side of arête past a bolt to small ledge, easy wall to big ledge. Belay at small tree, backup with wires in 'Never Say Never'.

FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich., 2009

16 * Downstream Trad 60m, 3

Start: Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

  1. 15m (16) Up corner for 10m traverse under 4 metre roof to arête, belay on small footledge, semi hanging.

  2. 25m (16) Up corner crack belay off gum tree.

  3. 20m (16) Up crack and scree to gum you rapped off. Average pitch, better to rap down and climb 'Never Never Land'.

FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich., 2009

23 ** Slipstream Sport 120m, 5, 44

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. 5 minutes walk, 5 pitches, 5 stars. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, as follows: WARNING: This approach currently has no fixed ropes as previously mentioned. Most likely burnt in fires. But can be still done with care.

From the top of the Date With Density rap area, continue another 80m (maybe rope up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp for the sketchiest bits. Then setup 20m rope to hand-over-hand down thru blade grass (steep) to little flat area. Rap off the small trees at little flat area and/or use bottom end of the 20m rope.

Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start.

  1. 22m (23/24) Best to clean pockets and edges just above mini ledge if rapping in from above. Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. About 7 UBs.

  2. 33m (23) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. This pitch finishes on a long scree slope and is more like 40m if you want a big bomber tree for the belay, or 50+m if you go all the way to the bolt at the start of pitch 3. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (18 UBs) with 60m rope(s) but the tree you reach is underwhelming).

  3. 50m (23) Corner, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. Fantastic pitch, and at least a grade easier than pitch 1, and maybe even easier than pitch 2! 12 U-bolts.

  4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

  5. 30m (23) Continuing the trend that not all 23s are created equal! Blast thru fun juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and through bushes to belay at tree with fixed ropes. 5 or 6 U-bolts. Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1, 2 added by Mikl & Ado a year or two later., 2008


The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. Best done in original fashion, ledge to ledge, 55m, trad only. Keep it real .... Or 1) 20m The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear, not too hard to place on lead. 2) 30m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH, marginal gear for belay.

Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

Set by Mike Law

FFA: Zac Vertrees & Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2012

FA: Monique Forrestier, 2012

27 ** Walk the Chalk Trad 65m, 2

Access: Probably easiest to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

  1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m. hand traverse along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

  2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling (1m) on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon & Nic Sellers, 2008


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