Perry's Lookdown Rock climbing19 routes in crag
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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!© (Macciza)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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