Perry's Lookdown Rock climbing22 routes in crag
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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!© (Macciza)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Awesome! Rap in & you just gotta climb out. Rap 200m down the SE side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby ;)), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots. Take a double set of cams, and brackets.
40m 23. L side of slabby grey arête. 3 carrots plus, in order, cams: #0.5, #1-1.5, #3.5, #0.5-1, #2. DBB.
40m 25 or 22M0 if you aid the start. Up the L side of the arête with 5 carrots (4th one hidden over to the right), plus cams #0.5-1, #2.5,3, #1.5,3. DBB.
30m 23. L side of arete (2 carrots) then R side (2 carrots) to orange slab (big cams). Bolt & cam belay.
25m 25, or 24M0 if you pull on the 2nd bolt. Up to 3rd bolt then photogenic traverse L to arete, and up its L side. 5 bolts to DBB.
35m 24. L side of final arête. 3 bolts, cams #1, #1.5,2, #3, #1-2. Bolt & tree belay.
20m scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.
FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999
The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between 'Slipstream' and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: Bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.
FA: Wilson, B Harington, 1999
This route is not at Perrys Lookdown but actually 1km to the west at Anvil Rock - this write-up should be under a separate Anvil Rock section. Technical climbing with lots of air, followed by an easier second pitch. Abseil down (45m) to hanging rap station as for Ordinary route access. Suggest you leave the rope there for retreat. Take 10 draws.
20m (23) Lurch left off belay to flake, keep scuttling left a few moves then head diagonally up slab past funkiness on arete.
30m (20) Up delicate and sportingly bolted wall.
FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty (alt), 2008
FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty
This route is not at Perrys Lookdown but actually 1km to the west at Anvil Rock - this write-up should be under a separate Anvil Rock section.
AWESOME 'Steep', exposed.
FA: Zac & Mac, 2005
BIG corner system visible to the west from the top of Zac's route. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin.
FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000
Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in Summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water.
Start: Walk down 100m as for 'Red Edge' and walk west 50m along under small cliff, scramble down 2nd gully, follow rope to top rap anchor.
35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete
45m (22) Climb main corner , up corner and out right to arêtes
25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void
45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Bleay on left end of legde
45m (23) Right and up to rap station
FA: Ado, Mikl, 2000
Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perry's! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.
Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor with white tape. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.
40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).
20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.
40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.
FA: Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith, 2009