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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 150.346103, -33.598714
- Description:© (Macciza)
Areas with some big time air and big time sun. This crag gets sun from dawn until about 4pm in winter, so if its sunny you definitely want cool air temps or a breeze. In summer, it goes into the shade at 3pm.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Approach:© (Macciza)
End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Forgotten Corner (Project)
Corner to left of 'I Forget'
FA: Project Mac, 2000
Up slab left of Red Edges final pitch
May need gear at end or rebolt.
Start: Do first rap for 'Red Edge' and you can't miss it.
FA: Mac N Zac, 2005
Awesome! Rap in & you just gotta climb out. Rap 200m down the SE side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby ), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots. Take a double set of cams, and brackets.
FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999
AWESOME 'Steep', exposed.
FA: Zac & Mac, 2005
BIG corner system visible to the west from the top of Zac's route. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin.
FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000
Justin Clark project awaiting an ascent when he gets fit again!
A Date with Density
Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in Summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water.
Start: Walk down 100m as for 'Red Edge' and walk west 50m along under small cliff, scramble down 2nd gully, follow rope to top rap anchor.
FA: Ado, Mikl, 2000
Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perry's! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.
Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor with white tape. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.
FA: Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith, 2009
The Rap Star
A mega long single pitch of pumpy orange jugs and limestoney rock. Climbs the wall you rap down from the top of A Date With Density past a bizzilion bolts. Reachy crux.
Starts at rap anchor 50m down the wall (as for the belay for 'Fat Yak' pitch 2).
FA: Neil Monteith, Vanessa Wills
The Yak bites Back
The top 2 pitches of BB, but a rad route on its own. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.
Start: Rap in as for DwD. Belay on ledge just above white sling.
FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2009
Yak Banquet (The Easy Link-up)
A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22.
A few tasty morsels pinched from under the probing eyes of the locals. Climbs face right of DwD. Varied climbing with a different style on every pitch. The top two pitches are worth doing in their own right as a three star route, with simple single 50m rap access.
Start: Rap to ground via 4 x 50m raps as for Date With Density.
FA: Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewllin
Never Say Never
The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between 'Slipstream' and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: Bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.
FA: Wilson, B Harington, 1999
Never Never Land
These are good additions for "Never Say Never". A Suggestion is to do "The Circuit" If climbing on single rope leave fixed rope on huge gum tree below "Slip Stream". Climb first 2 pitches of "Down Stream" Rap back down fixed rope, then climb "Never Never Land " walk along ledge and retrieve rap rope then climb "Never Say Never". A great 7 pitch day with a nice warm up.
Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .
Start: 55m below the start of Never say never is an alcove, left arete
FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009
Start: Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .
FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009
Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. 5 minutes walk, 5 pitches, 5 stars. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, as follows: WARNING: This approach currently has no fixed ropes as previously mentioned. Most likely burnt in fires. But can be still done with care.
From the top of the Date With Density rap area, continue another 80m (maybe rope up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp for the sketchiest bits. Then setup 20m rope to hand-over-hand down thru blade grass (steep) to little flat area. Rap off the small trees at little flat area and/or use bottom end of the 20m rope.
Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start.
FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1 & 2 added by Mikl and Ado a year or two later., 2008
This Is Your Brain on Crack / Orange Jam
The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. 1) 20m The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear, very hard to place on the lead. Rap off or do 2) 30m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH, marginal gear for belay. Best done in original fashion, ledge to ledge, 55m, trad only. Keep it real ....
Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.
Set by Mike Law
FFA: Zac Vertrees,@macciza, 2012
FA: Monique Forrestier, 2012
Walk the Chalk
Access: Probably easiest to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.
FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, Nic Sellers, 2008
|20||Never Say Never||110m|
|Never Never Land||2, 565m|
|The Yak bites Back||255m|
|Yak Banquet (The Easy Link-up)||5170m|
|The Rap Star||2050m,|
|25||A Date with Density||5200m|
|26||Red Edge||6, 20190m|
|This Is Your Brain on Crack||2, 155m|
|27||Walk the Chalk||265m|
|?||Forgotten Corner (Project)|