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Table of contents

1. Perry's Lookdown 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.346103, -33.598714

Description:© (Macciza)

Areas with some big time air and big time sun. This crag gets sun from dawn until about 4pm in winter, so if its sunny you definitely want cool air temps or a breeze. In summer, it goes into the shade at 3pm.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (Macciza)

End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Red Edge

Awesome! Rap in & you just gotta climb out. Rap 200m down the SE side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby ;)), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots. Take a double set of cams, and brackets.

  1. 40m 23. L side of slabby grey arête. 3 carrots plus, in order, cams: #0.5, #1-1.5, #3.5, #0.5-1, #2. DBB.

  2. 40m 25 or 22M0 if you aid the start. Up the L side of the arête with 5 carrots (4th one hidden over to the right), plus cams #0.5-1, #2.5,3, #1.5,3. DBB.

  3. 30m 23. L side of arete (2 carrots) then R side (2 carrots) to orange slab (big cams). Bolt & cam belay.

  4. 25m 25, or 24M0 if you pull on the 2nd bolt. Up to 3rd bolt then photogenic traverse L to arete, and up its L side. 5 bolts to DBB.

  5. 35m 24. L side of final arête. 3 bolts, cams #1, #1.5,2, #3, #1-2. Bolt & tree belay.

  6. 20m scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.

FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999

26Mixed 190m, 20
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Never Say Never

The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between 'Slipstream' and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: Bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.

FA: Wilson, B Harington, 1999

20Trad 110m
3 Bear Hug

This route is not at Perrys Lookdown but actually 1km to the west at Anvil Rock - this write-up should be under a separate Anvil Rock section. Technical climbing with lots of air, followed by an easier second pitch. Abseil down (45m) to hanging rap station as for Ordinary route access. Suggest you leave the rope there for retreat. Take 10 draws.

  1. 20m (23) Lurch left off belay to flake, keep scuttling left a few moves then head diagonally up slab past funkiness on arete.

  2. 30m (20) Up delicate and sportingly bolted wall.

FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty (alt), 2008

23Sport 50m, 15
4 Bear Hug P2 only

FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty

20Unknown 30m
5 ** Ordinary Route

This route is not at Perrys Lookdown but actually 1km to the west at Anvil Rock - this write-up should be under a separate Anvil Rock section.

  1. 45m (22)

  2. 25m (23)

  3. 25m (24)

  4. 10m (12)

24 RSport 120m
6 *** Parched

AWESOME 'Steep', exposed.

FA: Zac & Mac, 2005

29Sport
7 * Moonlight Corner

BIG corner system visible to the west from the top of Zac's route. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin.

FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000

22Trad 180m
8 *** A Date with Density

Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in Summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water.

Start: Walk down 100m as for 'Red Edge' and walk west 50m along under small cliff, scramble down 2nd gully, follow rope to top rap anchor.

  1. 35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete

  2. 45m (22) Climb main corner , up corner and out right to arêtes

  3. 25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void

  4. 45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Bleay on left end of legde

  5. 45m (23) Right and up to rap station

FA: Ado, Mikl, 2000

24Sport 200m
9 ** Fat Yak

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perry's! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor with white tape. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

  1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

  2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

  3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

FA: Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith, 2009

22Sport 100m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Slipstream

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. 5 minutes walk, 5 pitches, 5 stars. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, as follows: from the top of the Date With Density rap, continue another 80m (maybe rope up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp, partly with fixed ropes for the sketchiest bits. Then hand-over-hand 20m down fixed rope thru blade grass (steep) to little flat area. Rap off the tree near the bottom of the fixed ropes, or off the bottom end of the fixed ropes 10m further down near the clifftop, if you trust them. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start.

  1. 22m (23) Excellent but seems to be gaining a reputation as a sandbag. Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. About 7 UBs.

  2. 33m (22) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. This pitch finishes on a long scree slope and is more like 40m if you want a big bomber tree for the belay, or 50+m if you go all the way to the bolt at the start of pitch 3. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (18 UBs) with 60m rope(s) but the tree you reach is underwhelming).

  3. 50m (23) Corner, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. Fantastic pitch, and at least a grade easier than pitch 1, and maybe even easier than pitch 2! 12 U-bolts.

  4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

  5. 30m (23) Continuing the trend that not all 23s are created equal! Blast thru fun juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and through bushes to belay at tree with fixed ropes. 5 or 6 U-bolts. Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1 & 2 added by Mikl and Ado a year or two later., 2008

23Sport 120m, 44
11 ** This is Your Brain on Crack / Orange Jam / Play Misty For Me

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. 1) 20m 26 (++), The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear. 2) 30m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH, marginal gear for belay. Originally lead in one big pitch, before being retro'd. Ledge to ledge is fine if the second is ok with rope stretch on the hard climbing down low. Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

FA: Zac Vertrees and/or Monique Forestier, 2012

26Mixed 55m, 1
12 ** Walk the Chalk

Access: Probably easiest to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

  1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m. hand traverse along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

  2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling (1m) on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, Nic Sellers, 2008

27Trad 65m
13 *** The Yak bites Back

The top 2 pitches of BB, but a rad route on its own. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in as for DwD. Belay on ledge just above white sling.

  1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2009

22Sport 55m
14 ** Beggars Belief 25Unknown 120m
15 ** Never Never Land

These are good additions for "Never Say Never". A Suggestion is to do "The Circuit" If climbing on single rope leave fixed rope on huge gum tree below "Slip Stream". Climb first 2 pitches of "Down Stream" Rap back down fixed rope, then climb "Never Never Land " walk along ledge and retrieve rap rope then climb "Never Say Never". A great 7 pitch day with a nice warm up.

Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

Start: 55m below the start of Never say never is an alcove, left arete

  1. 25m (22) 25m Up arête past 3 carrots and natural pro, pul through roof then up crack to belay on small ledge at tree plus no 1 cams 2m above.

  2. 40m (20) Up crack, then continue up slabby arête past friends & 2 carrots, a no. 2 friend in slot on left of arête protects move to stance on right hand side of small roof, no.½ friend. Traverse under roof then climb left side of arête past a bolt to small ledge, easy wall to big ledge. Belay at small tree, backup with wires in 'Never Say Never'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

22Mixed 65m, 5
16 Jark's Project

Justin Clark project awaiting an ascent when he gets fit again!

Unknown
17 ** Downstream

Start: Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

  1. 15m (16) Up corner for 10m traverse under 4 metre roof to arête, belay on small footledge, semi hanging.

  2. 25m (16) Up corner crack belay off gum tree.

  3. 20m (16) Up crack and scree to gum you rapped off. Average pitch, better to rap down and climb 'Never Never Land'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

16Trad 60m
18 *** Yak Banquet (The Easy Link-up)

A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22.

  1. 30m (22) First pitch of 'Beggars Banquet'. Belay off large tree then scramble up left to...

  2. 45m (22) 2nd pitch of Date with Density to hanging belay.

  3. 40m (22) Traverse right to join into 'Fat Yak' pitch 1.

  4. 40m (22) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 5.

  5. 15m (21) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 6

22Sport 170m
19 Forgotten Corner (Project)

Corner to left of 'I Forget'

FA: Project Mac, 2000

Trad
20 ** The Rap Star

A mega long single pitch of pumpy orange jugs and limestoney rock. Climbs the wall you rap down from the top of The Date With Density past a bizzilion bolts. Reachy crux.

Start: Starts at rap anchor 50m down the wall (as for the belay for 'Fat Yak' pitch 2).

24Sport 50m, 20
21 I Forget

Up slab left of Red Edges final pitch

May need gear at end or rebolt.

Start: Do first rap for 'Red Edge' and you can't miss it.

FA: Mac N Zac, 2005

23Trad
22 ** Beggars Banquet

A few tasty morsels pinched from under the probing eyes of the locals. Climbs face right of DwD. Varied climbing with a different style on every pitch. The top two pitches are worth doing in their own right as a three star route, with simple single 50m rap access.

Start: Rap to ground via 4 x 50m raps as for Date With Density.

  1. 30m (22) Best pitch of the route! 'Steep' right facing flake to start then continuous pumpy climbing to finish on ledge with large tree belay.

  2. 15m (17) Scramble un-roped 20m up left to large ledge. Rope up again then ditty right across face to enter hand crack, and up it to ledge below corner. Belay off large tree and single ring.

  3. 20m (24) Wildly contorted. Couple of chossy moves to enter steep stemming corner, out right under roof to small ledge. Out right again and onto thin face. Up to hanging belay (same belay below P3 of DwD)

  4. 40m (24) Layaway up right leading very thin seam for 20m, then join into 'Fat Yak' P1 for 20m of easier slab past two ugly horizontals to comfy bolt belay on small ledge (the higher of the two set of anchors)

  5. 40m (22) Da pumper pitch. Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  6. 15m (21) Orange rock mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

24Sport 160m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
16 ** Downstream Trad 60m
20 Bear Hug P2 only Unknown 30m
* Never Say Never Trad 110m
22 ** Fat Yak Sport 100m
* Moonlight Corner Trad 180m
** Never Never Land Mixed 65m, 5
*** The Yak bites Back Sport 55m
*** Yak Banquet (The Easy Link-up) Sport 170m
23 Bear Hug Sport 50m, 15
I Forget Trad
** Slipstream Sport 120m, 44
24 *** A Date with Density Sport 200m
** Beggars Banquet Sport 160m
** Ordinary Route Sport 120m
** The Rap Star Sport 50m, 20
25 ** Beggars Belief Unknown 120m
26 ** Red Edge Mixed 190m, 20
** This is Your Brain on Crack Mixed 55m, 1
27 ** Walk the Chalk Trad 65m
29 *** Parched Sport
? Forgotten Corner (Project) Trad
Jark's Project Unknown