- Height: 190m
- Bolts: 20
- Pitches: 6
- Ascents: 6
- Description:© (Macciza)
Stunning and varied adventurous arete climbing of consistently high quality. Some very spaced gear in sections.
Access by rapping down A Date with Density, and traversing carefully to the right (facing out) along the base of the cliff.
Alternatively, rap 200m down the South-East side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a Casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots.
Bring a double rack of Cams, and Bolt Plates.
40m (23) - Use a wire to stick-clip the first Carrot Bolt (very hard moves off the ground). Up knife-blade arete-feature and technical face above, wandering around a bit to find gear and climb the line of least resistance. DBB.
40m (25 or 22M0) - Very hard bouldery start of the belay (or pull on a single bolt). Head right to the arete, and climb the left side of the arete on very spaced gear to a major horizontal break. Head back left at this break to carrot, then up trending towards the arete following carrots and gear. DBB.
30m (23) - Climb the tricky slab on the right side of the arete past 3 carrots, then up trending left via slightly steep technical face climbing. DBB.
25m (25 or 24M0) - Climb carefully up rotten rock to a very high carrot, and up to ring. Clip 2nd ring out left of undercut roof. Either aid on this bolt to gain the next and free from here (24M0) or climb up to the right of the FIRST ring until above it, traverse back left, then DOWN to the 3rd ring. Exciting (and photogenic) moves to gain and turn the arete, then up face on left-side of arete past 2 more carrots and gear. DBB.
35m (24) - Sustained power-endurance climbing up the left side of the arete past 4 bolts and gear. Bolt & tree belay.
20m (10) - Scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
First Ascent: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999
Located in Perry's Lookdown approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|25||Community registered grade|
|26 **||ACA Route Register|
|24M0 or 26||Blue Mountains Climbing|
Overall quality score: 83%
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