- Height: 190m
- Bolts: 20
- Pitches: 6
- Ascents: 1
Awesome! Rap in & you just gotta climb out. Rap 200m down the SE side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby ), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots. Take a double set of cams, and brackets.
40m 23. L side of slabby grey arête. 3 carrots plus, in order, cams: #0.5, #1-1.5, #3.5, #0.5-1, #2. DBB.
40m 25 or 22M0 if you aid the start. Up the L side of the arête with 5 carrots (4th one hidden over to the right), plus cams #0.5-1, #2.5,3, #1.5,3. DBB.
30m 23. L side of arete (2 carrots) then R side (2 carrots) to orange slab (big cams). Bolt & cam belay.
25m 25, or 24M0 if you pull on the 2nd bolt. Up to 3rd bolt then photogenic traverse L to arete, and up its L side. 5 bolts to DBB.
35m 24. L side of final arête. 3 bolts, cams #1, #1.5,2, #3, #1-2. Bolt & tree belay.
20m scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
|26||Community registered grade|
|26 **||ACA Route Register|
|24M0 or 26||Blue Mountains Climbing|
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