- Height: 120m
- Bolts: 44
- Pitches: 5
- Ascents: 11
- Description:© (bundybear)
Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density (requires 2 x 50m+ ropes) and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, however there is no top anchor (or quality rap-tree), thereby making this tricky.
If rapping the route: From the top of the Date With Density rap area, continue another 80m (consider roping up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp. Down fixed rope for 20m, and either establish an abseil-anchor off the bottom of the fixed rope, or sling 50 shrubs together. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start. If abseiling the route, consider cleaning the crux pockets on P1, as they acquire dirt.
Start below chimney slot, left of stunning thin crack (ORANGE JAM / This is Your Brain On Crack).
22m (23/24) Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. 6 UBs.
35m (22/23) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. Belay off bomber tree just below vegetated scree-slope. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (17 UBs) with 70m rope).
50m (23) Corner, grovel through some loose rock, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. A fantastic pitch. Sustained, but with no real hard move. Easier than P1. 12 U-bolts.
45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.
30m (22) Blast thru fun, juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and into scrubby top-out. No anchor or sturdy belay tree. Either sling a bunch of shrubs, or belay off the bottom of the fixed hand-over-hand rope 5m above the topout. 6 U-bolts.
Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1, 2 added by Mikl & Ado a year or two later., 2008
Located in Perry's Lookdown approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|23||Community registered grade|
|23 **||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 67%
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