- Height: 120m
- Bolts: 44
- Pitches: 5
- Ascents: 8
- Description:© (bundybear)
Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. 5 minutes walk, 5 pitches, 5 stars. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, as follows: from the top of the Date With Density rap, continue another 80m (maybe rope up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp, partly with fixed ropes for the sketchiest bits. Then hand-over-hand 20m down fixed rope thru blade grass (steep) to little flat area. Rap off the tree near the bottom of the fixed ropes, or off the bottom end of the fixed ropes 10m further down near the clifftop, if you trust them. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start.
22m (23) Excellent but seems to be gaining a reputation as a sandbag. Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. About 7 UBs.
33m (22) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. This pitch finishes on a long scree slope and is more like 40m if you want a big bomber tree for the belay, or 50+m if you go all the way to the bolt at the start of pitch 3. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (18 UBs) with 60m rope(s) but the tree you reach is underwhelming).
50m (23) Corner, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. Fantastic pitch, and at least a grade easier than pitch 1, and maybe even easier than pitch 2! 12 U-bolts.
45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.
30m (23) Continuing the trend that not all 23s are created equal! Blast thru fun juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and through bushes to belay at tree with fixed ropes. 5 or 6 U-bolts. Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1, 2 added by Mikl & Ado a year or two later., 2008
Located in Perry's Lookdown approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|23 **||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 67%
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