Section navigation

Description:

One of the first lines bolted at Perry's Lookdown, and one of the finest hard multipitches in the Blueys. This recently freed route tackles the stunning aretes on the LEFT side of a major buttress.

Access by rapping down A Date with Density (all the way to the lower tier - 135m of fixed ropes will get you to the last abseil, and a 60m rope will get you to the lower tier). Start on line of rings 15m left of A Date with Density.

The grades of pitches have been updated after recent repeats, and on consultation with Lee.

  1. 30m (23) - Up thin face. Hard start, then very thin slabby finish.

  2. 40m (25/26) - Extremely sustained, thin and technical face climbing. Quite runout. Obligatory free moves of 25 to get up this pitch!!!

  3. 30m (25) - Up right side of the arete to the rooflet. Around the arete and out left and up thin face (near corner - current bolt positioning makes this quite scary). Up face/corner until you can rejoin the arete. Up right side of the arete, then at the last bolt on the arete, traverse right to the middle of the face and up.

  4. 25m (21) - Around arete and up corner crack. Follow bolts along improbable rising traverse across the face, and up arete to belay.

  5. 30m (24) - The stunning left arete on perfect rock.

  6. 30m (22) - Up the grey rock on the right side of the arete. At the final rooflet, climb the left side of the arete through the roof (wild position!) and easier climbing above.

  7. 35m (23) - As for A Date with Density Pitch 5 - A rising traverse across the face, with a very thin slabby finish.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

Location:  

Located in Perry's Lookdown approx:
Lat/Long: -33.598714,150.346103

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
25 ***Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 92%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained tough hard fun cool nice fantastic good amazing great wicked superb pleasant super rad perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary fall runout tricky committing steep rest arete roof technical face crap traverse lip crack

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on The Regular Route (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.