Section navigation

Description:

One of the first lines bolted at Perry's Lookdown, and one of the finest moderate multipitches in the Blueys. This recently freed route tackles the stunning aretes on the LEFT side of a major buttress.

Access by either abseil or walk in. Both options require a similar time investment however the walk in allows you to carry less gear (a single rope) and NOT view the routes during the descent. Walk in - Follow the trail into the Grose Valley toward Blue Gum Forest. Once through the cliff line a prominent free-standing pillar becomes visible to the left of the trail. Continue past this for a further 150m then make your way left along the many tiers of small cliff lines staying on a relatively consistent contour. After approximately 5 minutes you will cross a large landslide. At this point make your way to and then along the base of the main cliff line. Another few minutes will have you at the base of Red Edge and Stilietto, from here skirt the base of the small amphitheatre to arrive at the base of the next set of routes The Regular Route, Upstaged and Date With Density. Abseil - Rap down A Date with Density (all the way to the lower tier - 135m of fixed ropes will get you to the last abseil, and a 60m rope will get you to the lower tier). Start on line of rings 15m left of A Date with Density.

  1. 20m (23) - Enjoyable face and arete climbing.

  2. 30m (25) - A brilliant pitch of thought provoking slab climbing. Originally graded 24 and probably not dissimilar in style or difficulty to many other old school 24's around the Mountains. From the belay ledge make your way slightly right and up following the meandering line of bolts up the beautiful orange slab. (An additional bolt has been added to this pitch due to concern around a potential ledge fall. The pitch remains sportingly bolted yet safe.)

  3. 20m (24) - A short but technical pitch. From the belay head left and climb the face and arete to the base of a small rooflet. At this point climb around the arete and make your way up the face and corner until you are able to return rightward to the arete. Follow arete to the next belay ledge.

  4. 20m (21) - The route begins to feel airy at this point. From the belay head left into the corner following this upward until an improbable rising traverse allows access across the face and up the arete to belay ledge.

  5. 30m (24) - Follow the stunning left arete on perfect orange rock.

  6. 30m (22) - A tricky start leads to some steep glory jugs in a wildly exposed position. Move awkwardly up and off the right side of the belay ledge following grey rock up a short slab before moving back left onto the arete and up the steep jugs.

  7. 40m (23) - Interesting climbing on more excellent rock. As for A Date with Density Pitch 5 - Navigate your way up and rightward on the scoopy red rock then head straight up the low angled grey rock to the finish.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

Location:  

Located in Perry's Lookdown approx:
Lat/Long: -33.598714,150.346103

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
***lee cossey
25 ***Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 92%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained tough hard fun cool nice fantastic good amazing great wicked superb pleasant super rad perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary fall runout tricky committing steep rest arete roof technical face crap traverse lip crack

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on The Regular Route (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.