Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Down the Main Pierces Pass track

© (aarond)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Down the Main 'Pierces Pass' track.

© (aarond)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
25 * Grasshopper Trad 70m

Free climb at 25

Start: Nice splitter crack on the big orange wall on the left near the bottom of 'Pierces Pass' track

FA: R Hentschke, J Welch, 2002

2

An obvious linkup of P3 of Cicada into the direct finish (Grasshopper) bypassing the middle and top cruxes of Cicada, but joining Grasshopper just before its top crux. Easier than the original Cicada finish. Requires a few cams.

From the belay at the end of P2 of Cicada, continue up as for Cicada P3 past 3 bolts (into the bright orange streak) out left. Continue up this (without traversing back right to Cicada's 4th bolt) to the anchors for Grasshopper.

3
24 *** Cicada Mixed 55m, 15

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper.

Start as for Pitch 1 of grasshopper.

P1 (18) 10m - Climb the short crack and flake system on gear to the belay anchors at the obvious ledge.

P2 (23) 25m - Start up Grasshopper P2 for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

P3 (24) 20m - A great technical pitch, but a bit wandery in order to avoid retroing/climbing Grasshopper, while still trying to follow the easiest line. From the belay, climb right a move or two, then up reinforced flake system, and out left to re-attached hold in bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m past a bolt, then before reaching chossy monster jugs (where Grasshopper moves right of the crack) head back right to other orange streak (and bolt) via big flakes. Up this orange streak via some weird features to easier ground in grey rock. Step left a bit at horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors. The top half is easier if you go off route onto the top of Grasshopper (could be a future linkup).

Top out, or rap back to main belay ledge, and again to ground.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: 2013

FA: Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

4

OPEN PROJECT.

"Easy traverse start into cruxy technical, thin, crimpy traversing, then 8m of pleasant thin face. Might be 24-25, but only for up to 4m or so" - Paul T

A technical line that avoids the strenuous climbing of Cicada P3 by replacing it with technical traversing.

From the belay at the end of Cicada P2, Climb right a move or two, clip first bolt on Cicada P3, then continue right to next bolt and up twin flake system. Clip this bolt, then up and trend right following bolts to orange streak left of arete. Up this to anchors on slab. 6 bolts + anchors on this pitch.

Top out and rap off above Grasshopper (or walk back up to Rigby Hill), or clean on lower off to belay at end of P2, and rap once to ground.

Set by P. Thomson, 2013

5
23 ** Cricket Sport 50m, 18

A good long 2nd pitch of sustained technical face climbing. The 1st pitch is essentially a bolted boulder problem to gain the first ledge.

Pitch 1 (12m, 23/24) - Start at ground level in small cave right of the small corner (Grasshoppers' first pitch). Tricky start to gain roof, then around lip of roof (crux) and up easy slab to the anchors. The bolt just around the lip of the roof is hard to clip. Belay off ledge anchors below the start of Grasshopper/Cicada (extend using rope).

Pitch 2 (35m, 23/24) - A hard start. Jump start to okay hold, then tricky moves to gain better holds. Tricky mantle, then malevolent slab sequence to the next bolt. Easier climbing out right, up small corner, then up right side of "groove" system to massive detached block. Past this (easiest to hand traverse right), then thin face climbing all the way to the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Can JUST BARELY lower off to the lower ledge with a 70m rope (tie a knot in the end).

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2014

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2014

6
Coghill New Route #1 Sport Project 35m

CLOSED PROJECT

Set by C Coghill

7
Coghill New Route #2 Unknown Project 35m

CLOSED PROJECT

Set by C Coghill

8
21 Bwardervan Dexter Route Unknown 27m
9
21 * The Colours of Spring Unknown 110m

NOTE:

*Pitch 2 does NOT finish at the first set of chains, but instead goes up a short corner to the left, then back right under the roof to a set of carrot bolt anchors around the corner.

*After the recent bushfires, rapping off after P3 is no longer feasible (the rap tree is disintegrating), you must top out (P4) to escape this climb safely.

10
22 ** By Hook or by Crook Unknown 55m
11
19 Fungous Face Unknown 66m
12
20 ** Larry Unknown 40m
13
21 ** Curly Unknown 50m
14
20 Moe Unknown 35m
15
15 Old Testament Unknown 250m
16
23 *** Smegadeath Sport 220m

All on carrots - 17 on the first pitch, including the belay.

17
22 * Skyrider Unknown 70m
18
23 ** Fret Arete Unknown 40m
19
23 ** Disco Biscuit Sport 250m
20
15 * Proteus Unknown 220m

Easy to get lost

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.