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Table of contents

1. Pierces Pass East Side 20 routes in Crag

Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.334006, -33.572416

Description:© (aarond)

Down the Main Pierces Pass track

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (aarond)

Down the Main 'Pierces Pass' track.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Grasshopper

Free climb at 25

Start: Nice splitter crack on the big orange wall on the left near the bottom of 'Pierces Pass' track

FA: R Hentschke, J Welch, 2002

FFA: mikl law, 2008

25 Trad 70m
2 Cicada-Grasshopper Linkup - Open Project

An obvious linkup of P3 of Cicada into the direct finish (Grasshopper) bypassing the middle and top cruxes of Cicada, but joining Grasshopper just before its top crux. Easier than the original Cicada finish. Requires a few cams.

From the belay at the end of P2 of Cicada, continue up as for Cicada P3 past 3 bolts (into the bright orange streak) out left. Continue up this (without traversing back right to Cicada's 4th bolt) to the anchors for Grasshopper.

Trad Project 20m
3 *** Cicada

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper.

Start as for Pitch 1 of grasshopper.

P1 (18) 10m - Climb the short crack and flake system on gear to the belay anchors at the obvious ledge.

P2 (23) 25m - Start up Grasshopper P2 for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

P3 (24) 20m - A great technical pitch, but a bit wandery in order to avoid retroing/climbing Grasshopper, while still trying to follow the easiest line. From the belay, climb right a move or two, then up reinforced flake system, and out left to re-attached hold in bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m past a bolt, then before reaching chossy monster jugs (where Grasshopper moves right of the crack) head back right to other orange streak (and bolt) via big flakes. Up this orange streak via some weird features to easier ground in grey rock. Step left a bit at horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors. The top half is easier if you go off route onto the top of Grasshopper (could be a future linkup).

Top out, or rap back to main belay ledge, and again to ground.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: 2013

FA: Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

24 Mixed 55m 3, 15
4 * Green Grocer (Cicada RHV) - OPEN PROJECT


"Easy traverse start into cruxy technical, thin, crimpy traversing, then 8m of pleasant thin face. Might be 24-25, but only for up to 4m or so" - Paul T

A technical line that avoids the strenuous climbing of Cicada P3 by replacing it with technical traversing.

From the belay at the end of Cicada P2, Climb right a move or two, clip first bolt on Cicada P3, then continue right to next bolt and up twin flake system. Clip this bolt, then up and trend right following bolts to orange streak left of arete. Up this to anchors on slab. 6 bolts + anchors on this pitch.

Top out and rap off above Grasshopper (or walk back up to Rigby Hill), or clean on lower off to belay at end of P2, and rap once to ground.

Set by P. Thomson, 2013

Sport Project 20m, 6
5 ** Cricket

A good long 2nd pitch of sustained technical face climbing. The 1st pitch is essentially a bolted boulder problem to gain the first ledge.

Pitch 1 (12m, 23/24) - Start at ground level in small cave right of the small corner (Grasshoppers' first pitch). Tricky start to gain roof, then around lip of roof (crux) and up easy slab to the anchors. The bolt just around the lip of the roof is hard to clip. Belay off ledge anchors below the start of Grasshopper/Cicada (extend using rope).

Pitch 2 (35m, 23/24) - A hard start. Jump start to okay hold, then tricky moves to gain better holds. Tricky mantle, then malevolent slab sequence to the next bolt. Easier climbing out right, up small corner, then up right side of "groove" system to massive detached block. Past this (easiest to hand traverse right), then thin face climbing all the way to the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Can JUST BARELY lower off to the lower ledge with a 70m rope (tie a knot in the end).

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2014

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2014

23 Sport 50m 2, 18
6 Coghill New Route #1


Set by C Coghill

Sport Project 35m
7 Coghill New Route #2


Set by C Coghill

Unknown Project 35m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Bwardervan Dexter Route 21 Unknown 27m
9 * The Colours of Spring


*Pitch 2 does NOT finish at the first set of chains, but instead goes up a short corner to the left, then back right under the roof to a set of carrot bolt anchors around the corner.

*After the recent bushfires, rapping off after P3 is no longer feasible (the rap tree is disintegrating), you must top out (P4) to escape this climb safely.

21 Unknown 110m
10 ** By Hook or by Crook

Two brilliant pitches. On the face around the corner (to the right, looking at the cliff) of The Colours of Spring. Locate the carrot bolt on the arete of P1 before starting up.

Cams BD #0.3 - BD #4, full rack of wires + RPs.

P1 - Up face to ledge stance. Big gear (#4 BD) high in the flake on the right. Traverse to the arete (#2 BD), then up the arete past a carrot bolt and onto the slab.

P2 - Climb the sustained stemming corner to its conclusion past 3 carrot bolts with mixed fiddly gear to keep it sane. Crucial small wire in the flake before the 3rd bolt. At the top, belay off two carrots below Pitch 3 of The Colours of Spring, but consider extending your belay to the edge to avoid dropping rocks on your second.

NOTE: At the moment there are NO rings to rap off from the top of Pitch 2. Be prepared to leave behind a prussic (slinging the carrots) and carabiner to rap 55m to the ground, IN CASE the in situ rap gear is gone.

23 Trad 55m
11 Fungous Face 19 Unknown 66m
12 ** Larry 20 Unknown 40m
13 ** Curly 21 Unknown 50m
14 Moe 20 Unknown 35m
15 Old Testament 15 Unknown 250m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 *** Smegadeath

All on carrots - 17 on the first pitch, including the belay.

FA: @mikl

23 Sport 220m 6
17 * Skyrider 22 Unknown 70m
18 ** Fret Arete 23 Unknown 40m
19 ** Disco Biscuit 23 Sport 250m
20 * Proteus

Easy to get lost

15 Unknown 220m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
15 Old Testament Unknown 250m
* Proteus Unknown 220m
19 Fungous Face Unknown 66m
20 ** Larry Unknown 40m
Moe Unknown 35m
21 Bwardervan Dexter Route Unknown 27m
** Curly Unknown 50m
* The Colours of Spring Unknown 110m
22 * Skyrider Unknown 70m
23 ** By Hook or by Crook Trad 55m
** Cricket Sport 50m 2, 18
** Disco Biscuit Sport 250m
** Fret Arete Unknown 40m
*** Smegadeath Sport 220m 6
24 *** Cicada Mixed 55m 3, 15
25 * Grasshopper Trad 70m
? Cicada-Grasshopper Linkup - Open Project Trad Project 20m
Coghill New Route #1 Sport Project 35m
Coghill New Route #2 Unknown Project 35m
* Green Grocer (Cicada RHV) - OPEN PROJECT Sport Project 20m, 6