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Description:

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper.

Start as for Pitch 1 of grasshopper.

P1 (18) 10m - Climb the short crack and flake system on gear to the belay anchors at the obvious ledge.

P2 (23) 25m - Start up Grasshopper P2 for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

P3 (24) 20m - A great technical pitch, but a bit wandery in order to avoid retroing/climbing Grasshopper, while still trying to follow the easiest line. From the belay, climb right a move or two, then up reinforced flake system, and out left to re-attached hold in bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m past a bolt, then before reaching chossy monster jugs (where Grasshopper moves right of the crack) head back right to other orange streak (and bolt) via big flakes. Up this orange streak via some weird features to easier ground in grey rock. Step left a bit at horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors. The top half is easier if you go off route onto the top of Grasshopper (could be a future linkup).

Top out, or rap back to main belay ledge, and again to ground.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 2013

    P3 only.

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 2013

    P2; P3 anchors; reinforced hollow flake.

  • First Ascent: 2013

  • First Ascent: Paul Thomson, 2013

    Pitch 1 & 2. Belayed by Ben "Guns" Young.

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 2013

    Installed new bolt to redirect route. Chopped old bolt. Reinforced upper flake. Re-attached broken crux hold.

  • First Ascent: Paul Thomson, 2014

    Pitch 3. Belayed by Glen Thomson.

Location:  

Located in Pierces Pass East Side approx:
Long/Lat: 150.334006,-33.572416

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Principal
24 *** Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid tired strenuous crux sustained hard stoked good brilliant super great exciting face rest technical crimpy

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