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Description:

OPEN PROJECT.

"Easy traverse start into cruxy technical, thin, crimpy traversing, then 8m of pleasant thin face. Might be 24-25, but only for up to 4m or so" - Paul T

A technical line that avoids the strenuous climbing of Cicada P3 by replacing it with technical traversing.

From the belay at the end of Cicada P2, Climb right a move or two, clip first bolt on Cicada P3, then continue right to next bolt and up twin flake system. Clip this bolt, then up and trend right following bolts to orange streak left of arete. Up this to anchors on slab. 6 bolts + anchors on this pitch.

Top out and rap off above Grasshopper (or walk back up to Rigby Hill), or clean on lower off to belay at end of P2, and rap once to ground.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

  • Route Setter: P. Thomson, 2013

Location:  

Located in Pierces Pass East Side approx:
Long/Lat: 150.334006,-33.572416

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

* Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux super exciting fall dry traverse technical

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