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Climbs the face to the right of Grasshopper. Excitingly technical. Bailing before Cicada Pitch 3 avoids the last, tricky to onsight pitch.

Start as for Pitch 1 of grasshopper.

P1 (18) 10m - Climb the short crack and flake system on gear to the belay anchors at the obvious ledge.

P2 (23) 25m - Start up Grasshopper P2 for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet.

Either finish up Cicada Pitch 3 (24), or rap back to the ground (1 x 30m rap with stretch gets you to a rock platform on the ground).

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Route History:

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 31 Aug 2013

    P3 only.

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 8 Sep 2013

    P2; P3 anchors; reinforced hollow flake.

  • First Ascent: 6 Oct 2013

  • First Ascent: Paul Thomson, 6 Oct 2013

    Pitch 1 & 2. Belayed by Ben "Guns" Young.

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 12 Dec 2013

    Installed new bolt to redirect route. Chopped old bolt. Reinforced upper flake. Re-attached broken crux hold.

  • First Ascent: Paul Thomson, 5 Jan 2014

    Pitch 3. Belayed by Glen Thomson.


Located in Pierces Pass East Side approx:
Lat/Long: -33.572416,150.334006

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24 Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 75%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid tired strenuous crux sustained hard stoked good brilliant super great exciting face rest technical crimpy

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