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Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 ** Better Than Ben Hur
20
Unknown 160m
2 * Tientel
21
Unknown 200m
3 * Kiss and Tell
22
Unknown 60m
4 * Mr Mac's Crack
21
Unknown 130m
5 Church of the seven samauri -pitches 1 and 2
20
Unknown 60m
6 ** Church of the Seven Samurai
22
Unknown 110m
7 *** Bladderhozen
23
Unknown 110m
8 * Wrath of Delilah
19
Unknown 60m
9 * Samson Gets a No 1
21
Unknown 28m
10 * Kryptonite Krack
23
Unknown 28m
11 ** The Colours of Spring
21
Unknown 110m
12 Bwardervan Dexter Route
21
Unknown 27m
13 ** By Hook or by Crook
22
Unknown 55m
14 Fungous Face
19
Unknown 66m
15 ** Larry
20
Unknown 40m
16 ** Curly
21
Unknown 50m
17 Moe
20
Unknown 35m
18 Old Testament
15
Unknown 250m
19 *** Smegadeath

All on carrots - 17 on the first pitch, including the belay.

23
Sport 220m
20 ** Fret Arete
23
Unknown 40m
21 * Skyrider
22
Unknown 70m
22 *** Disco Biscuit 2000
23
Unknown 250m
23 * Proteus

Easy to get lost

15
Unknown 220m
24 * Gob Smack

FA: Mikaela Thomson, 2009

23
Unknown 12m
25 Jub Jub the Iguana
19
Unknown 15m
26 Sideshow Bob
20
Unknown 18m
27 ** A Date with Dentistry
21
Unknown 20m
28 Are You Doing It As Hard As Wimmera Party Ice
22
Sport 32m
29 Contented cows

Alternative start and finish to Hotel California. The first three pitches (17, 8, 19) of CC linked into the top of HC makes for a sub-20 outing. The first three pitches were rebolted January 2011 entirely on RBs/UBs/FHs, so no brackets are required, although it's wise to take a couple in case you have to share belays. Follow the hotel C traverse on the top head wall for 5 bolts the head straight up the seam to a dbb in the ledge. Hard moves off the belay them straight up and finish slightly right take 8 slings, enjoy figure out why.

22
Trad 280m
30 ** Humies Sheltered Workshop
23
Unknown 35m

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