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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 * Kryptonite Krack Unknown 28m
2
21 ** Samson Gets a No 1 Trad 28m
3
19 Wrath of Delilah Trad 60m
4
23 ** Bladderhozen Sport 110m
5

Wall with great gear left of bladderhozen.

6
23 ** The Iron Throne Sport 110m, 4

4 well bolted sport pitches with shade after 10am and minor weather protection in the upper pitches. All bolts and belays are glue-in rings - no bolt plates required. Try not to throw anything on the canyoners that wander along the base of the route at regular intervals. Starts 10m left of Bladderhozen, and 3m left of Church of the Seventh Samurai at far left end of small ledge at small tree and small balancing flake.

  1. 14m (16) Easy face left of balancing flake to ledge. Scramble up and left 5m to belay left of giant flake. 5 bolts.

  2. 32m (23) Easily up left side of giant flake for a few metres then straight up the orange wall. At 15m tread cautiously past shale band and through crux undercut. Once the difficulty eases trend right for a couple of bolts to miniature ledge belay. 12 bolts.

  3. 30m (21) Long orange wall left of major corner to big ledge. 11 bolts

  4. 37m (23) Tricky slab start then continue up orange wall that steepens gradually to a pumpathon finish onto ledge. 15 bolts. Rap back down the route. Double ropes required unless you have an 80m single or don't mind a rope stretch just reach the belay on a 70m.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2016

FA: Neil Monteith, adam demmert & cathdv, 2016

7
21 * Mr Mac's Crack Trad 130m
8
22 * Kiss and Tell Trad 60m
9
21 * Tientel Trad 200m
10
20 ** Better Than Ben Hur Trad 160m
11

FA: L Trihey & C Jackson, 2002

12
20 * coss Trad 60m

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