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Description

The first wall on the right as you break into the sunlight. The routes from 'So, Said the King through to Aniseed Arete' are on a ledge above the track the others start on track level.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The crack and slab at the left end on the wall. Has a lower off of sorts.

FA: L.Nordick, 1991

Starts on the path below the Dogs, Cats and Apples ledge and finishes up sstk. Soft tick

FA: Greg Childs

Start: Left hand route off the ledge.

FA: Mitch Warren

Keep off 'Nylon Happy' to earn the grade and another star.

FA: Claw

Rebolted 2004. '23' in the 2015 Blue Mountains Guidebook. Rest assured that it is indeed 22.

Start: Under the crack/seam in the middle of the wall.

FA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey & M. Radke, 1988

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, 1991

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, 1991

FA: Mike Law

This is basically a retrobolt of dragons egg

FA: M.Warren, 2003

Has been retro-bolted with ring bolts and has a new finish out to the left after rooflet.

Start: 3m right of Ness is Best, by the tree.

FA: M Radke J Cooksey, 1988

Rebolted 2004

FA: J.Smoothy, 1995

A good way to ease into this little wall. Has a couple of extra bolts so no longer run out

FA: 2003

A bit of an unknown quantity. be solid at the grade an know Bluey's rock.Requires gear and wanders about. 3 pitches.

FA: R.Lassman & K.Bell, 1972

Climb next to Powerbra Rangers.

1m right of Honeycomb, bolt at start for belayer,start off ledge and follow bolts to roof, pull around roof to DBB.

FA: V Peterson, 2010

Scramble along ledge to BRs

  1. 80m (20) Up through over hang and jughaul to belay ledge.

  2. -m (-) Wander about through easy territory past BRs on the left side of arete to belay.

  3. -m (-) Walk of to 'Woodpecker Wall'.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1997

Activity

Check out what is happening in Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall.