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Description:© (mjw)

Another excellent long route, with a confounding crux. Originally 24 but confirmed 26 these days and even so its not soft. And once you do link past the crux... keep your wits about you on the technical finish! Start 5m R of WO.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1985


Located in Sail Away Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.273309,-33.637341

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 * Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
25(S) ** Blue Mountains Climbing
25 ** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
25(S) ** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
26 Principal
26 ** ** ACA Route Register
26 *** Billy the Squidd
26 *** David O'Donnell
26 *** Meridith Simms

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 90%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux desperate tough hard fantastic super lovely fun classic nice weird pinch rest fingers undercling epic

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