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Description

A slabby Wall about 9 metres high with some good rock. All climbs are described from left to right

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Front side of Kevs boulder, up arete clipping bolts on your left...top out for full value (lowers offs available if needed)

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 10 Nov 2013

Around corner from ABD, up left side of slab to shared anchors or top out and walk off

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 10 Nov 2013

Right side of slab on kevs boulder, 2 bolts and top out to belay bolts on top (shared anchors available if preferred)

FFA: 10 Nov 2013

First route on main wall, Up arete left of corner moving right at top to shared anchors

FA: Rod Wills, 15 Sep 2013

An easy pocketed featured wall up past left side of cave. Crux after 2nd bolt. 2 bolts + DBB.

FA: Rod Wills, 1999

2m right of QOC. Straight up slab and right side of cave. 4 bolts + Lower offs

FA: rod wills, 2004

Up the wall to the left of the bulge following line of bolts with crux past the third bolt. 3 bolts + DBB

FA: Rod Wills, 2000

Easy start to bulge, getting significantly harder after the second bolt. 2 bolts + DBB

FA: Kevin Van Tilberg., 1999

2m rt of S, over small overlap over the sloppy nose to anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 10 Nov 2013

Straight up middle of the cave.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Purgatory Wall.