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Description

Quite awesome really! Old style sport climbing on all sorts of innovative fixed pro. Shade in the summer. Freezing in the winter!!

Beware! The majority of bolts (and hangers) here are rusty and should be used with caution. The whole crag is in desperate need of anchor renewal - as it is at the present time, well it can just be plain scary!

© (mjw)

Access issues

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

© (mjw)

Approach

Same as for Cosmic County. Scramble down the hill below Readers Wives (marked RW), cross the stream then head up the track to the left towards the cliff-line .

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A bit mossy, but interesting.

FA: L.McManus & M.Stacey, 1991

Rebolted + new lower off, January 2017.

60m rope gets you back to the floor.

FA: C.Baxter, M.Law & V.Kondos, 1991

Great! Do all 3 pitches!

  1. 40m (25)

  2. 20m (20)

  3. 45m (22)

FA: M.Law & J.Holbrook, 1991

The major left leading line splitting the right side of the cliff. A well protected trad adventure - gear to #3 camalot.

  1. 25m (22) Up thrutchy crack to roof (BR), traverse right and up into left trending steep corner. Belay at small ledge.

  2. 17m (19) Keep following the steep left trending corner to hanging belay at rings. Well protected. You can rap from here (30m).

  3. 7m (15) Very short pitch straight up to shale ledge. Can be linked easily with pitch 2.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore, 1992

Start is marked "GA", left of 'The Five Forty Five'

Great route !

Mikl was and IS a genius but clipping the rotating 'hanger' on the slab below the roof will require as much energy as it takes to do the climb!

New bolts 2016. A new reachable bolt has been added under the roof but the first ring needs to be removed.

FA: M.Law, 1992

Remember that these routes Do require anchor renewal . You'll wish this one had been chipped.

FA: M.Law, 1999

Now with its own punchy direct start right of 'Locomotion' New bolts 2016

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore, 1993

FA: M.Law, 1992

Left of 'Locomotion'. Streno start, thin moves to big flake. Maybe just a touch harder then TBTB.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2016

The joke extension to 'The Send Train'. Thin move past the anchors, then jugs. Finish as per TBTB. REALLY SHOULD BE CHOPPED!!

Easiest and least mentally demanding route here. Still quite thin and tricky at the crux. New bolts and lower off.

FA: V.Kondos, 1992

Start: Around the arete on the wall to the left of TB,TB.

FA: M.Law, 1992

New bolts 2016

FA: M.Law, 1992

Start: Use fixed rope - if it is still there! Or traverse in from TT.

FA: M.Law, 1992

FA: G.Bradbury, M & Colyvan, 1982

Start: Route to the right of the arete.

FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 2000

FA: M.Law, 1982

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Bradbury, 1982

FA: G.Bradbury & M.Law, 1982

FA: G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1982

Activity

Check out what is happening in Railway Cliff.