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Description

Quite awesome really! Old style sport climbing on all sorts of innovative fixed pro. Shade in the summer. Freezing in the winter!!

Beware! The majority of bolts (and hangers) here are rusty and should be used with caution. The whole crag is in desperate need of anchor renewal - as it is at the present time, well it can just be plain scary!

© (mjw)

Access issues

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

© (mjw)

Approach

Same as for Cosmic County. Scramble down the hill below Readers Wives (marked RW), cross the stream then head up the track to the left towards the cliff-line .

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 ** The Fish Sport 35m

A bit mossy, but interesting.

FA: L.McManus & M.Stacey, 1991

2
20 ** The Age of Steam Sport 35m

FA: C.Baxter, M.Law & V.Kondos, 1991

3

Great! Do all 3 pitches!

  1. 40m (25)

  2. 20m (20)

  3. 45m (22)

FA: M.Law & J.Holbrook, 1991

4
22 ** The Five Forty Five Mixed 75m, 3, 1

The major left leading line splitting the right side of the cliff. A well protected trad adventure - gear to #3 camalot.

  1. 25m (22) Up thrutchy crack to roof (BR), traverse right and up into left trending steep corner. Belay at small ledge.

  2. 17m (19) Keep following the steep left trending corner to hanging belay at rings. Well protected. You can rap from here (30m).

  3. 7m (15) Very short pitch straight up to shale ledge. Can be linked easily with pitch 2.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore, 1992

5
25 ** Gumbo Akimbo Sport 45m

Great! Mikl was and IS a genius but clipping the rotating 'hanger' on the slab below the roof will require as much energy as it takes to do the climb!

FA: M.Law, 1992

6
26 * Edward Chiselhands Sport 45m

Remember that these routes Do require anchor renewal may have been 'chipped' and may take some gear. But then they may not!

FA: M.Law, 1999

7
25 * Cicatrix Sport 60m

Man, how good will this area be when someone invests a few thousand bucks into it!

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore, 1993

8
26 ** Locomotion Sport 45m

FA: M.Law, 1992

9

easiest and least mentally demanding route here.

FA: V.Kondos, 1992

10
24 ** The Lithgow Flash Sport 40m

Start: Around the arete on the wall to the left of TB,TB.

FA: M.Law, 1992

11
25 ** Traction Thrash Sport 40m

FA: M.Law, 1992

12
26 * Suction Pump Sport 45m, 2

Start: Use fixed rope - if it is still there! Or traverse in from TT.

FA: M.Law, 1992

13
22 M1 Complications Aid 65m

FA: G.Bradbury, M & Colyvan, 1982

14
24 * Bone China Sport 40m

Start: Route to the right of the arete.

FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 2000

15
23 ** Porcelay Negra Sport 40m

FA: M.Law, 1982

16
18 ** Tamish Sport 60m

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Bradbury, 1982

17
24 * Verdigris Sport 35m

FA: G.Bradbury & M.Law, 1982

18
19 Cold Comfort Sport 30m

FA: G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1982

Activity

Check out what is happening in Railway Cliff.