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Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Projectproject
Sport Project
2 ** Drag Queen

Up detached block to face, through large roof to headwall. Lots of slings. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

27
Sport 37m , 17
3 * Flognoid

Commiting start to carrot leads to great climbing on experimental shaped U bolts.

FA: M Stacey, M Law, B Maddison, 1998

22
Sport 20m
4 ** 62 West Wallaby Street
26
Unknown 24m
5 project

Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.

Sport Project 25m
6 Maurice Road
21
Unknown 45m
7 Pleasant street

Closed project. P.1 traverse pockets to arette, up. P.2 pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face over hanging arette.

Sport Project 35m , 18
8 *** Snot Rocket Science

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.

FA: M Law, 2003

27
Sport 25m
9 Saul
17
Unknown 50m
10 Trad Terminator
21
Unknown 40m
11 Trad Exterminator

FA: , 2003

22
Unknown 25m
12 ** M.A.R.K. #1

this is Eddy the Eagle?

23
Unknown 25m
13 * Eddy the Eagle
23
Unknown 25m
14 Submarine XI
21
Unknown 50m
15 * Renegade Ways

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

21
Sport 25m
16 * High kickin chicks
23
Unknown 25m
17 * High kickin chick

called: high kickin chicks

FA: , 2003

23
Unknown 25m
18 * Indecision
24
Unknown 30m
19 Trad Exterminator (No More!)

No More - It has been retro-ringed, damn it! Spare a thought for those who climbed it 'old school'.

Start: Marked at base (I think) Starts left side of ledge on main wall

FA: Claw, 1999

21
Sport 40m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.