Details needed

This crag does not have a description!

Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
27 ** Ablaze Sport 35m, 13

climb as for D.Q for three bolts then improbable moves straight up through roof to orange streak headwall and excellent crux . Two hands over the very top for the tick! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

2
27 ** Drag Queen Sport 34m, 17

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 120cm slings after block. Commiting move to higher jug left on headwall to clip last bolt. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

3
22 Flognoid Sport 20m

Commiting start to carrot leads to great climbing on experimental shaped U bolts.

FA: M Stacey, M Law, B Maddison, 1998

4

thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x 12

FA: A.Farquar

5
project Sport Project 25m

Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.

6
21 Maurice Road Trad 45m
7
24 * Pleasant street Sport 32m, 18

P.1 (24) traverse jugs to arette, up past move to hands free rest then crux. Tricky onsight. P.2 (23)Another pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face moments and secret holds over hanging arette.

FFA: E.Wells, R.Basset, 2014

8
27 *** Snot Rocket Science Sport 25m

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.

FA: M Law, 2003

9
17 Saul Trad 50m
10
21 Trad Terminator Unknown 40m
11
22 Trad Exterminator Sport 25m

FA: 2003

12
23 ** M.A.R.K. #1 Sport 25m

this is Eddy the Eagle?

13
23 * Eddy the Eagle Unknown 25m
14
21 Submarine XI Unknown 50m
15
21 * Renegade Ways Sport 25m

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

16
23 * High kickin chicks Sport 25m
17
23 High kickin chick Unknown 25m

called: high kickin chicks

FA: 2003

18
24 * Indecision Sport 30m
19
? Unknown

FA: 1999

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.