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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
27 ** Ablaze Sport 35m, 13

climb as for D.Q for three bolts then improbable moves straight up through roof to orange streak headwall and excellent crux . Two hands over the very top for the tick! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

2
27 ** Drag Queen Sport 34m, 17

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 120cm slings after block. Commiting move to higher jug left on headwall to clip last bolt. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

3
22 Flognoid Sport 20m

Commiting start to carrot (why?!) leads to great climbing (heady, reachy, pumpy) on experimental shaped U-bolts. Or maybe they're V-bolts?

FA: M Stacey, M Law & B Maddison, 1998

4

Thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x12

FA: A.Farquar

5
project Sport Project 25m

Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.

6
21 Maurice Road Trad 45m 2

Start is marked and is 5m R of 54WWS.

  1. 30m (21)

  2. 15m (? - easy)

7
24 * Pleasant street Sport 32m 2, 18
  1. 12m (24) Traverse jugs to arete, up past move to hands-free rest then crux. Tricky onsight.

  2. 20m (23) Another pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face moments and secret holds over hanging arete.

FFA: E.Wells & R.Basset, 2014

8
27 *** Snot Rocket Science Sport 25m

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.

FA: M Law, 2003

9
17 Saul Trad 50m 2

Finger crack in corner 10m R of SRS.

  1. 23m (17)

  2. 27m (?)

10
21 Trad Terminator Unknown 40m
11
22 Trad Exterminator Sport 30m

The vague arete on left of the wall. Thinking of Mike climbing this on trad will make you cringe. On bolts, it's quite nice climbing.

FA: 2003

12
23 * M.A.R.K. #1 Sport 30m

A series of mantles leads to the bit you want to climb -- the scoopy overhung top.

13
21 Submarine XI Trad 50m

Start is marked. There's a carrot up there at like 15m.

14
25 U-Boat Sport 25m

6m R of the top of the stairs. Seems to be red-tagged, but it's been done.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw

15
21 * Renegade Ways Sport 25m

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

16
23 High Kick'n Chicks Sport 30m

5m R of RW.

FA: V Peterson, 2003

17
24 * Indecision Sport 30m

Start on yellow wall under bulges 7m R of HKC. Athletic moves through roof to a moment of indecision... left or right? Both options are bolted. Then an 8m runout for no good reason, and a nice finish.

18
? Unknown

FA: 1999

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