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Table of contents

1. Renitz Pass 19 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.253517, -33.599369

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ablaze

climb as for D.Q for three bolts then improbable moves straight up through roof to orange streak headwall and excellent crux . Two hands over the very top for the tick! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

27 Sport 35m, 13
2 ** Drag Queen

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 120cm slings after block. Commiting move to higher jug left on headwall to clip last bolt. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

27 Sport 34m, 17
3 Flognoid

Commiting start to carrot leads to great climbing on experimental shaped U bolts.

FA: M Stacey, M Law, B Maddison, 1998

22 Sport 20m
4 ** 62 West Wallaby Street

thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x 12

FA: A.Farquar

26 Sport 24m
5 project

Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.

Sport Project 25m
6 Maurice Road 21 Trad 45m
7 * Pleasant street

P.1 (24) traverse jugs to arette, up past move to hands free rest then crux. Tricky onsight. P.2 (23)Another pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face moments and secret holds over hanging arette.

FFA: E.Wells, R.Basset, 2014

24 Sport 32m 2, 18
8 *** Snot Rocket Science

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.

FA: M Law, 2003

27 Sport 25m
9 Saul 17 Trad 50m
10 Trad Terminator 21 Unknown 40m
11 Trad Exterminator

FA: 2003

22 Sport 25m
12 ** M.A.R.K. #1

this is Eddy the Eagle?

23 Sport 25m
13 * Eddy the Eagle 23 Unknown 25m
14 Submarine XI 21 Unknown 50m
15 * Renegade Ways

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

21 Sport 25m
16 * High kickin chicks 23 Sport 25m
17 High kickin chick

called: high kickin chicks

FA: 2003

23 Unknown 25m
18 * Indecision 24 Sport 30m
19 ?

FA: 1999


2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
17 Saul Trad 50m
21 Maurice Road Trad 45m
* Renegade Ways Sport 25m
Submarine XI Unknown 50m
Trad Terminator Unknown 40m
22 Flognoid Sport 20m
Trad Exterminator Sport 25m
23 * Eddy the Eagle Unknown 25m
High kickin chick Unknown 25m
* High kickin chicks Sport 25m
** M.A.R.K. #1 Sport 25m
24 * Indecision Sport 30m
* Pleasant street Sport 32m 2, 18
26 ** 62 West Wallaby Street Sport 24m
27 ** Ablaze Sport 35m, 13
** Drag Queen Sport 34m, 17
*** Snot Rocket Science Sport 25m
? Unknown
? project Sport Project 25m