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Table of contents

1. Renitz Pass 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.253517, -33.599369

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ablaze

climb as for D.Q for three bolts then improbable moves straight up through roof to orange streak headwall and excellent crux . Two hands over the very top for the tick! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

27Sport 35m, 13
2 ** Drag Queen

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Lots of slings. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

27Sport 35m, 17 Will Monks 1 years ago

humungous roof! Would be classic if a bit less cruxy

Evan Wells 1 years ago

Lots of 60-80cm slings for face and head wall and one 120cm for third bolt will make clipping anc...

3 * Flognoid

Commiting start to carrot leads to great climbing on experimental shaped U bolts.

FA: M Stacey, M Law, B Maddison, 1998

22Sport 20m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Unique, interesting - you have been warned. Why o why is the first bolt not a ring?

Jason Smith 7 years ago

Interesting - some weired moves

4 ** 62 West Wallaby Street

thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x 12

FA: A.Farquar

26Sport 24m
5 project

Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.

Sport Project 25m
6 Maurice Road 21Trad 45m Rod Young

LED with Mark B. 1980

7 * Pleasant street

P.1 (24) traverse jugs to arette, up past move to hands free rest then crux. Tricky onsight. P.2 (23)Another pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face moments and secret holds over hanging arette.

FFA: E.Wells, R.Basset, 28th Jan

24Sport 32m, 18
8 *** Snot Rocket Science

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.

FA: M Law, 2003

27Sport 25m
9 Saul 17Trad 50m Tony Williams 9 years ago

Bit dirty. Go to trad exterminator anchors and rap 26m to deck

10 Trad Terminator 21Unknown 40m
11 Trad Exterminator

FA: 2003

22Sport 25m Will Monks 1 years ago

"good" climbing but average rock quality and ledges. way overhyped in the guide!

Chris Bentham 2 years ago

nice climb

12 ** M.A.R.K. #1

this is Eddy the Eagle?

23Sport 25m Will Monks 1 years ago

cool! "very good" for the moves, but a few too many ledges/breaks

Chris Bentham 2 years ago

22?

13 * Eddy the Eagle 23Unknown 25m Tim Haasnoot 2 years ago

Love the top section!!

David O'Donnell 6 years ago

3 stars in the new guide??? throwing them away that day!!...it doesnt get any better as you go ri...

14 Submarine XI 21Unknown 50m
15 * Renegade Ways

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

21Sport 25m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Borderline average with the giant creaking death flake up high. Why hasn't this been hammered off?

Tim Haasnoot 2 years ago

Not so sure on the rock on this one.

16 * High kickin chicks 23Sport 25m
17 * High kickin chick

called: high kickin chicks

FA: 2003

23Unknown 25m Chris Bentham 2 years ago

lose rock

Tim Haasnoot 2 years ago

Poor bolting and even worse rock, bad falls on ledges. Not recommended.

18 * Indecision 24Sport 30m
19 ?

FA: 1999

Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
17 Saul Trad 50m
21 Maurice Road Trad 45m
* Renegade Ways Sport 25m
Submarine XI Unknown 50m
Trad Terminator Unknown 40m
22 * Flognoid Sport 20m
Trad Exterminator Sport 25m
23 * Eddy the Eagle Unknown 25m
* High kickin chick Unknown 25m
* High kickin chicks Sport 25m
** M.A.R.K. #1 Sport 25m
24 * Indecision Sport 30m
* Pleasant street Sport 32m, 18
26 ** 62 West Wallaby Street Sport 24m
27 ** Ablaze Sport 35m, 13
** Drag Queen Sport 35m, 17
*** Snot Rocket Science Sport 25m
? Unknown
? project Sport Project 25m