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Table of contents

1. Renitz Pass 18 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.253517, -33.599369

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ablaze

climb as for D.Q for three bolts then improbable moves straight up through roof to orange streak headwall and excellent crux . Two hands over the very top for the tick! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

27 Sport 35m, 13
2 ** Drag Queen

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 120cm slings after block. Commiting move to higher jug left on headwall to clip last bolt. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

27 Sport 34m, 17
3 Flognoid

Commiting start to carrot (why?!) leads to great climbing (heady, reachy, pumpy) on experimental shaped U-bolts. Or maybe they're V-bolts?

FA: M Stacey, M Law, B Maddison, 1998

22 Sport 20m
4 ** 62 West Wallaby Street

Thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x12

FA: A.Farquar

26 Sport 24m
5 project

Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.

Sport Project 25m
6 Maurice Road

Start is marked and is 5m R of 54WWS.

  1. 30m (21)

  2. 15m (? - easy)

21 Trad 45m 2
7 * Pleasant street
  1. 12m (24) Traverse jugs to arete, up past move to hands-free rest then crux. Tricky onsight.

  2. 20m (23) Another pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face moments and secret holds over hanging arete.

FFA: E.Wells, R.Basset, 2014

24 Sport 32m 2, 18
8 *** Snot Rocket Science

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.

FA: M Law, 2003

27 Sport 25m
9 Saul

Finger crack in corner 10m R of SRS.

  1. 23m (17)

  2. 27m (?)

17 Trad 50m 2
10 Trad Terminator 21 Unknown 40m
11 Trad Exterminator

The vague arete on left of the wall. Thinking of Mike climbing this on trad will make you cringe. On bolts, it's quite nice climbing.

FA: 2003

22 Sport 30m
12 * M.A.R.K. #1

A series of mantles leads to the bit you want to climb -- the scoopy overhung top.

23 Sport 30m
13 Submarine XI

Start is marked. There's a carrot up there at like 15m.

21 Trad 50m
14 U-Boat

6m R of the top of the stairs. Seems to be red-tagged, but it's been done.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw

25 Sport 25m
15 * Renegade Ways

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

21 Sport 25m
16 High Kick'n Chicks

5m R of RW.

FA: V Peterson, 2003

23 Sport 30m
17 * Indecision

Start on yellow wall under bulges 7m R of HKC. Athletic moves through roof to a moment of indecision... left or right? Both options are bolted. Then an 8m runout for no good reason, and a nice finish.

24 Sport 30m
18 ?

FA: 1999


2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
17 Saul Trad 50m 2
21 Maurice Road Trad 45m 2
* Renegade Ways Sport 25m
Submarine XI Trad 50m
Trad Terminator Unknown 40m
22 Flognoid Sport 20m
Trad Exterminator Sport 30m
23 High Kick'n Chicks Sport 30m
* M.A.R.K. #1 Sport 30m
24 * Indecision Sport 30m
* Pleasant street Sport 32m 2, 18
25 U-Boat Sport 25m
26 ** 62 West Wallaby Street Sport 24m
27 ** Ablaze Sport 35m, 13
** Drag Queen Sport 34m, 17
*** Snot Rocket Science Sport 25m
? Unknown
? project Sport Project 25m