A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport, Trad and Unknown
Long/Lat: 150.253517, -33.599369
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
climb as for D.Q for three bolts then improbable moves straight up through roof to orange streak headwall and excellent crux . Two hands over the very top for the tick! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.
FFA: E Wells, 2013
Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 120cm slings after block. Commiting move to higher jug left on headwall to clip last bolt. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.
FFA: Evan Wells, 2012
Commiting start to carrot (why?!) leads to great climbing (heady, reachy, pumpy) on experimental shaped U-bolts. Or maybe they're V-bolts?
FA: M Stacey, M Law, B Maddison, 1998
62 West Wallaby Street
Thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x12
Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.
Start is marked and is 5m R of 54WWS.
FFA: E.Wells, R.Basset, 2014
Snot Rocket Science
30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.
FA: M Law, 2003
Finger crack in corner 10m R of SRS.
The vague arete on left of the wall. Thinking of Mike climbing this on trad will make you cringe. On bolts, it's quite nice climbing.
A series of mantles leads to the bit you want to climb -- the scoopy overhung top.
Start is marked. There's a carrot up there at like 15m.
6m R of the top of the stairs. Seems to be red-tagged, but it's been done.
FFA: Steve Hawkshaw
Start: Under the bulges
High Kick'n Chicks
5m R of RW.
FA: V Peterson, 2003
Start on yellow wall under bulges 7m R of HKC. Athletic moves through roof to a moment of indecision... left or right? Both options are bolted. Then an 8m runout for no good reason, and a nice finish.
|23||High Kick'n Chicks||30m|
|Pleasant street||2, 1832m|
|26||62 West Wallaby Street||24m|
|Snot Rocket Science||25m|