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Description:© (Niall)

Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail.

Start: Marked "KB".

  1. 20m (17) Enjoyable. Good quality but slightly dirty rock and thought provoking moves. Follow right trending seam over three bulges. Top bulge was passed by moving left and up on FA, but remember to protect your second! Above top bulge traverse easily right all the way to belay at tree.

  2. 16m (10) Slippery lichenous corner. Easy but poorly protected. Not worth the effort unless you are heading for the top anyway. Belay at large tree.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt) & Josh Dodson, 2007


Located in Reservoir Dogs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.275598,-33.674533

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 Niall Doherty
17 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 42%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good nice

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