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Description:© (Niall)

Enjoyable face climbing.

Start: Starts off a rectangular block and climbs the rap-route.

  1. 19m (20) Straight up with hardish mantle move above second bolt then a pull through a small overlap. 7FH to twin-shackle belay/lower-off at the big horizontal.

  2. 18m (18) Awkward start out of the break - best to start on left (facing in) of belayer - up a bit then move right of the bolt line to use the layback flake and ironstone jugs. 7FH to 2FH belay at base of small rap-in gully. Best to bring up the second then belay each other on the scramble up to the rap-in hangers a few metres further up.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Niall Doherty & Rod Smith (alt), 2008


Located in Reservoir Dogs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.275598,-33.674533

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 Community registered grade
20 Niall Doherty
20 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 62%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux tough hard good super great fun nice face reachy interesting

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