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Description:© (Niall)

Excellent position and exposure. Good moves on beautiful orange rock with the steep crux move on the second pitch performed 80m above the valley floor.

Start: Starts off the boulder at the south end of the ledge.

  1. 20m (20) Start will require a jump for the vertically challenged or short of reach (like the first ascentionist). Afterwards move left then up, back right and up on left side of rounded arete. Third ring is set back and can't be seen from below. 9RB to 2RB belay/lower-off at big break.

  2. 18m (21) Big exposure but nothing too desperate. Another tough start if you're not tall - begin a metre right of the belay, then up and traverse left. Head up to the hanging buttress and go straight up the steepness, marvelling at the massive pile of bird poo. Pull on to headwall then up and left on deceptively tenuous holds. 2RB + 6FH to 2RB belay on small ledge just below main platform.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: P2 Niall Doherty & Rod Smith

  • First Ascent: Niall Doherty (P1, P2) & Rod Smith (second, 2007


Located in Reservoir Dogs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.275598,-33.674533

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 Niall Doherty
21 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 69%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard beautiful fun cool nice fantastic good great awesome exposed steep rest reachy interesting arete roof face easy dry

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