Topo #48

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 I Don't Tip

Fully bolted low grade climb on stainless glue-in hex bolts. Start: Starts 5m left (facing in) of KBSS. Look for the stainless carrot about a metre above eye height. 1. 14m (15) Straight up, or (easier) up one move, left then up past 6BR to mantle onto large belay ledge. 2FH belay on wall. 2. 22m (12) Up trending right on some fragile ironstone, moving right around blunt arete about two thirds way up. 7BR to 2FH belay on top just right of rusted carrot sticking out of the rock. Some home made fixed hanger, a relic from a bygone age.

15 Sport 36m 2, 13 Unlink route
2 * K-Billy's Super Sounds of the 70s

Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail. Start: Marked "KB". 1. 20m (17) Enjoyable. Good quality but slightly dirty rock and thought provoking moves. Follow right trending seam over three bulges. Top bulge was passed by moving left and up on FA, but remember to protect your second! Above top bulge traverse easily right all the way to belay at tree. 2. 16m (10) Slippery lichenous corner. Easy but poorly protected. Not worth the effort unless you are heading for the top anyway. Belay at large tree.

17 Trad 36m 2 Unlink route
3 Let's Get a Taco

Vertical face climbing with a bit of a layback section. Start: Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in. 1. 19m (18) Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off. 2. 17m (17) Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Really only worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. 'Grunt' off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

18 Sport 36m 2, 12 Unlink route
4 * Stuck in the Middle with You

Sustained crimpy first pitch, delicate second pitch. Start: Starts at a small pointy boulder 3m left (facing in) of the rap-in. 1. 19m (19) A long series of crimpy moves on a very slightly overhanging face should induce a bit of a pump! There is no decent rest until near the top. 7RB to a 2RB belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. (This pitch may end up being upped a grade. See what you think). 2. 19m (18) Thought provoking climbing with a lot of small fragile ironstone flakes higher up and an exposed top out. 8RB to a 2RB belay in cavelet on top.

19 Sport 38m 2, 15 Unlink route
5 ** Bohemiath

Enjoyable face climbing. Start: Starts off a rectangular block and climbs the rap-route. 1. 19m (20) Straight up with hardish mantle move above second bolt then a pull through a small overlap. 7FH to twin-shackle belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. 2. 18m (18) Awkward start out of the break - best to start on left (facing in) of belayer - up a bit then move right of the bolt line to use the layback flake and ironstone jugs. 7FH to 2FH belay at base of small rap-in gully. Best to bring up the second then belay each other on the scramble up to the rap-in hangers a few metres further up.

20 Sport 37m 2, 14 Unlink route
7 Wake Up and Apologise Pitch 1
18 Sport 27m Unlink route
8 ** Wake Up and Apologise

Cruisy first pitch, tough second. Start: Starts 6m left (facing in) of MO. 1. 20m (18) Pleasant climbing on good rock. 9FH to 2-shackle belay/lower-off. 2. 18m (22) Tough off ledge then long series of thin moves on slightly overhung face. Trend right at top to finish on ledge. Scramble off to right. 6FH, 1RB to 2RB belay.

22 Sport 38m 2, 16 Unlink route
10 ** Mr Orange

Excellent position and exposure. Good moves on beautiful orange rock with the steep crux move on the second pitch performed 80m above the valley floor. Start: Starts off the boulder at the south end of the ledge. 1. 20m (20) Start will require a jump for the vertically challenged or short of reach (like the first ascentionist). Afterwards move left then up, back right and up on left side of rounded arete. Third ring is set back and can't be seen from below. 9RB to 2RB belay/lower-off at big break. 2. 18m (21) Big exposure but nothing too desperate. Another tough start if you're not tall - begin a metre right of the belay, then up and traverse left. Head up to the hanging buttress and go straight up the steepness, marvelling at the massive pile of bird poo. Pull on to headwall then up and left on deceptively tenuous holds. 2RB + 6FH to 2RB belay on small ledge just below main platform.

21 Sport 38m 2, 17 Unlink route
6 ** Flex Time

A slightly left-leading line that tackles the central overhang at the top of the wall on its left side. All rings. Starts at scoop 6m right (facing in) of Bohemiath (rap). P1. A couple of sustained sections at the grade (crux pitch). Double ring SHB/lower off at the top of the pitch. P2. Different style than P1 and not quite as difficult. Airy finish to belay on top.

21 Sport 40m 2, 16 Unlink route

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