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Access issues

CURRENTLY NO TOP ACCESS AS TRACK IN PROGRESS. WILL UPDATE This area is currently recovering from the 2014 bush fires. Natural bush regeneration is in progress with council fencing in place to stop public access. On approach to the first rap in point ensure you stick to the Boars Head access trail so as not to interfere with the regrowth. Regeneration of this area will take many years!


Park at Cahills Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. Walk 100m south following the road and locate the trail head leading to the top of the first abseil station (chain anchors) opposite Boar’s Head.

Abseil (#1, chain anchors) 20m into gully. Walk 30m down into the gully and out onto right wall (South) above huge chockstone. Traverse solo or on belay from the gully around the ledge (4 ring bolts in place) and through the chimney (3 ring bolts in place) to the 3 anchor abseil station.

Abseil (#2, chain anchors) 20m down slot to boulders and next abseil station.

Green Salad Gully Abseil

Abseil (#3, double ring bolts) 25m to gully floor (1 ring bolt at base). Set up retrievable safety line using single ring bolt or scramble 15m to end of slot and next abseil station.

Link abseils 2 & 3 using double ropes.

Abseil (#4, chain anchors) 25m to ground and follow trail around to the right to locate climbs.

If you encounter a commercial group going down the abseils in the slot, you can abseil down the west face (Shandy side) of the slot if you have double ropes using abseil #3 anchors.

It’s also possible to walk down Devil’s Hole (locate the pole painted with “Devils Hole” in red, opposite 239 Cliff Drive) and along the base of the cliff for 20 minutes, locate the big slot of Green Salad Gully, go left another 140m then scramble up 40m to the base of Shandy or right to the other routes. This requires a bit more luck and walking.

ESCAPE: If you need to escape the crag rap off the fixed double rap rings. Abseil pass the overhang and big ledge to reach the base of the cliff. Follow the cliff line to the right (facing the cliff) for approx 30 minutes. Pass the man made cave shelter, continue along the base of the cliff and head up the gully marked with the sign "Devils Hole" to find Cliff Drive.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
15 Burgundy Buttress Unknown 83m
11 Dry Sherry Pinnacle Unknown 40m
16 Terrier 1 Unknown 100m
13 Barassa Pearl Unknown 51m
13 Lager & Lime Unknown 170m
13 Night Cap Unknown 50m
16 IOU Unknown 35m
10 Rhum Cognac Unknown 60m
6 Gin and Tonic Unknown 40m
13 Baby Sham Unknown 60m
10 Cocktail Buttress Unknown 63m
16 Whisky Gully Unknown 49m
14 Peacock Gully Unknown 83m
15 M1 Triffid Aid 120m
8 ** Shandy Mixed 99m 4, 6

Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.

Pitch 1: 8 - 33m.

Fixed hangers & Carrots.

Up and right to cave on arete. Easy face climbing on easy angled slab, straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock.

Triple Carrot belay on ledge (admire old rusty belay in cave on your right.)

Pitch 2: 8 - 26m Up, left and back to corner. It's possible to scramble off left here.

Pitch 3: 6 - 14m

A fixed hanger, then medium cams/nuts

Up right crack. Belay of Rap anchors in Chimney.

To get off here, rap to previous belay & scramble left or...


Pitch 4: 14 - 26m Chimney up abseil route, past anchor and up. Walk off as for Dirty Rotten Pig. Easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

FA: K Western, 1958

19 ** Dirty Rotten Pig Sport 95m 4

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path:

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belay, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp ironstone.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out.) Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill. You will use it for rappelling out.) Follow the track around to the right until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass a U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split. You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney. Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall. Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope) Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground. Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far. BE CAREFUL, YOU WILL BE ON A CLIFF FACE. FALL BELOW.

  1. 19:~40m. Start is difficult and belay is next to ledge so make sure belayer is on safety. Gets run-out. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup hanging belay.

  2. 19:~25m. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Gets run-out. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup hanging belay.

  3. 17:~35m. Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Twin or double rope recommended. Gets run-out. Finish at multiple U-bolts. Setup top belay.

Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature. Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. A U-bolt is mounted hip-height to allow rappel. Rappel or solo down into the gully.

  1. 14, 25m Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located immediately to the NORTH of the rappel at start. Climb is runout and first bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m to find first bolt. Setup top belay.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

FA: Ness, Mikl & Jody Powell

12 Whisky Chaser Unknown
10 West End Unknown 43m
15 Humbaba Unknown 30m
8 Temperance Arete Unknown 130m
8 Intemperance Arete Unknown 83m
12 M4 Bloody Mary LHS Aid 33m
15 M6 Bloody Mary RHS Aid 47m
15 M5 Tia Maria / FreerMaccia Trad Project 41m

Start 5m right of Bloody Mary RHS (marked) below triangular prowed ledge at 4m. Fixed rope may be present, bounce test before use; if not then lasso or stick-sling the very tip of prow and ascend rope then mantle onto ledge and good gear. Climbing starts here.

  1. Head up and right following slanting invert thin crack to lip of roof and rest. Upper corner is very thin crack and a few decent holds. Stemming and a few face holds help. Exit left at top. Tree belay.

Standard rack plus extra small cams.

Top corner is a bit dirty and mossy but should clean up a bit.


FA: Ewbank, 1967

Detour Trad Project
Diversion Ahead Unknown Project
** Dead End Unknown Project 25m, 6

Set by Mac & Zac


Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

FA: Ewbank 18 M4

FFA: Zac Vertrees & Macciza, 2012

22 * Catastrophe Corner Mixed 30m, 2

Start at corner capped by triangular roof left of main waterfall. diagonally right to bolt and up to ledge, then corner system up to right side of roof. Follow corner/crack up to end then left on sloping shelf past bolt (old belay) and up groove to ledge past old threads and traverse off left.

FA: Ewbank & 18 M2, 1969

FFA: Macciza & Zac Vertrees, 2006

22 * Catastrophic Crack Trad 30m

Obvious crack line angling into Catastrophe Corner, then taking right hand exit at top.

After trying the direct start at small roof, try increasing further left, but no further then the tree, until you can get established on wall. Either head up slightly to gear or traverse into line and some gear. Follow crack, a bit of gear to stonking Medium cams then slight runout up to ramp and gear. Join CC at the top but continue up and right to exit.

Wires and cams. Tree belay over the top.


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