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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Walk right onto the ledge before the decent rungs. Harness up to traverse alone the ledge, and be careful not to kick rocks onto the climbers bellow.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!



Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
27 ** Lofty Lungfish Sport 16m, 9

Far end of ropes with triple belay. Up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. Backjump to clean.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

29 The Gift Sport 16m, 11

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

FA: Steve Grokivc

Set by Lloyd Wishard

26 * Brixton Jamm Sport 15m, 10

Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot

Set by Jenga, 2014

Set by Jenga, 2014

FA: Ben Jenga, 2015

30 *** Radical Departures Sport 20m, 9

One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's.

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

Set by lloyd wishart

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2013

23 For Flake's sake Sport 14m

The obvious flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.

Set by Steve Grkovic

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

28 * Hokonui Henchman Sport 18m, 17

Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

Project Steve Sport Project 22m, 12

The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at Bell…?

Set by Steve Grkovic

24 #Ledge life Sport 18m

Tackle the hard and under-graded start as for Steve's project for 3 bolts, then head right and up. Ponder your position from the bird ledge then slab, yes slab moves up the sidepull flakes and victory jugs. A long draw at the base of the box roof helps the rope run.

Set by Ben Jenga, 2015

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2015

31 ** Church Mouse Sport 25m

Mostly easy first half leads to a dyno out the lower roof (requires a long sling or 2), clip a hidden chain, then up the sustained second half with a difficult sequence in the upper roof. Best cleaned by reversing to the first anchor.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

29 * Grave Rat Sport 25m, 11

Unusual and absolutely desperate moves through the mid-height roof.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

27 *** Spent Force Sport 20m

A good route with sustained and varied climbing. If you can find the cleaned holds, its not too scary heading up and then left to the anchor!

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007

28 ** Gushing Gargoyles Sport 16m, 10

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

25 Feisty Phasmid Sport 15m, 8

Weird move to get started, hard at top of wall, then the crux in the roof.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

23 ** Destined for Grayness Sport 12m, 5

Good climbing, add a grade if you crank past the anchors to jugs on the lip.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

24 Impatient Transport Sport 12m, 6

Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts. Has a couple of thin moves and a hard clip.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

23 Freeway Sport 16m, 7

Just left of FL starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

24 * Fridge Lifting Sport 14m, 7

Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

23 Welcome Alex Top rope 14m, 7

The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do FL instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011


Check out what is happening in Departures (Upper).