Details needed

This crag does not have a description!

Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Summary

The upper wall of the shady side. Doesn't see a whole lot of traffic but some very hard classic up there. Also some great easier routes down the northern end worth your attention on the walk out.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
27 ** Lofty Lungfish Sport 15m

far end of ropes with triple belay. up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. backjump to clean

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

2
Project Lloyd Wishart Sport Project 16m, 11

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

Set by Lloyd Wishard

3

Mmm this could be hard?? Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux off rest looks like its going to be very hard?? Double undercling madness.

Set by Jenga, 2014

Set by Jenga, 2014

4
30 *** Radical Departures Sport 20m, 9

One of the best routes at departures. Another of bells classic 30's After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

5
23 * For Flake's sake Sport 14m

The OBVIOUS flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

6
28 * Hokonui Henchman Sport 18m

start at big flake and head up and right over bulge and in to blank overhanging corner and over the final roof

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

7
Project Steve Sport Project 22m, 12

The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at bell…?

8
31 ** Church Mouse Sport 25m

Dyno thru the roof and save some power for the finish. start left of G.R.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

9
29 * Grave Rat Sport 25m

Through the desperate roof and beyond

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

10
27 ** spent force Sport 20m

left of G.G. up wall and thru roof with some rests. shared start with G.R.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007

11
28 ** Gushing gargoyles Sport 18m

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

12
25 Feisty Phasmid Sport 18m

Left of the 23, tricky start then good wall before hard thru the roof.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

13

Starts to the left of the 24. Fun climbing.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

14
24 * Impatient Transport Sport 12m

Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts.

FFA: lloyd wishart

FA: 2008

15
23 Freeway Sport 16m

Just left of project starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

16
Project - Bye Bye Teddy Sport Project 12m

Funky orange radness for 3 bolts and then link back into 'WA'

FA: PROJECT - Jason Lammers

17
23 Welcome Alex Sport 12m

1st first route on the ledge. Follow the orange streak. Hard goey start !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.