Departures (Upper) Mostly sport climbing18 routes in sector
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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
Walk right onto the ledge before the decent rungs. Harness up to traverse alone the ledge, and be careful not to kick rocks onto the climbers bellow.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Unusual and absolutely desperate moves through the mid-height roof.
FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009
A good route with sustained and varied climbing. If you can find the cleaned holds, its not too scary heading up and then left to the anchor!
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007
Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009
Weird move to get started, hard at top of wall, then the crux in the roof.
FA: lloyd wishart, 2009
Good climbing, add a grade if you crank past the anchors to jugs on the lip.
FA: lloyd wishart, 2009
Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts. Has a couple of thin moves and a hard clip.
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008
Just left of FL starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2011
Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff.
FA: Jason Lammers, 2014
The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do FL instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt.
FA: Jason Lammers, 2011