Details needed

This crag does not have a description!

Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Summary

The superb upper wall of the shady side.

Some very hard classic up there and some great easier routes down the northern end worth your attention on the walk out.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Walk right onto the ledge before the decent rungs. Harness up to traverse alone the ledge, and be car full not to kick rock onto the climbers bellow.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
27 ** Lofty Lungfish Sport 15m

far end of ropes with triple belay. up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. backjump to clean

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

2

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

FA: Steve Grokivc

Set by Lloyd Wishard

3
26 * Brixton Jamm Sport 15m, 10

Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds.

Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot

Set by Jenga, 2014

Set by Jenga, 2014

FA: Ben Jenga, 26th Jan

4
30 *** Radical Departures Sport 20m, 9

One of the best routes at departures. Another of bells classic 30's

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

5
23 For Flake's sake Sport 14m

The OBVIOUS flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

6
28 * Hokonui Henchman Sport 18m

Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

7
Project Steve Sport Project 22m, 12

The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at bell…?

8

New line in the work off the ledge.

Start as for Steve's project for 3 bolts then head right and up. Ponder your position from the bird ledge then slab, yes slab moves up the side pull flakes and victory jugs. Mostly jugs bar the start boulder.

Set by Ben Jenga, 25th Feb

9
31 ** Church Mouse Sport 25m

Dyno thru the roof and save some power for the finish. start left of G.R.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

10
29 * Grave Rat Sport 25m

Through the desperate roof and beyond

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

11
27 ** Spent Force Sport 20m

left of G.G. Climb sustained wall and through roof with some rests then lofty moves on the upper wall. Shares the start with G.R.

Great fun from recent repeats.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007

12
28 ** Gushing gargoyles Sport 18m

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

13
25 Feisty Phasmid Sport 18m

Left of the 23, tricky start then good wall before hard thru the roof.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

14

Starts to the left of the 24. Fun climbing.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

15
24 Impatient Transport Sport 12m

Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts.

FFA: lloyd wishart

FA: 2008

16
23 Freeway Sport 16m

Just left of project starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

17
24 * Fridge Lifting Sport 15m

Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

18
23 Welcome Alex Top rope 15m

The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do fridge lifting instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.