A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Departures (Upper) 18 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295903, -33.535302

Unique Features And Strengths:

The superb upper wall of the shady side.

Some very hard classic up there and some great easier routes down the northern end worth your attention on the walk out.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.


Walk right onto the ledge before the decent rungs. Harness up to traverse alone the ledge, and be car full not to kick rock onto the climbers bellow.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Lofty Lungfish

far end of ropes with triple belay. up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. backjump to clean

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27Sport 15m
2 Lloyd's Bolts, Steve's Muscles

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

FA: Steve Grokivc

Set by Lloyd Wishard

29Sport 16m, 11
3 * Brixton Jamm

Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds.

Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot

Set by Jenga, 2014

Set by Jenga, 2014

FA: @benjenga, 26th Jan

26Sport 15m, 10
4 *** Radical Departures

One of the best routes at departures. Another of bells classic 30's

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

30Sport 20m, 9
5 For Flake's sake

The OBVIOUS flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

23Sport 14m
6 * Hokonui Henchman

Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

28Sport 18m
7 Project Steve

The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at bell…?

Sport Project 22m, 12
8 #Ledge life. (Project Jenga)

New line in the work off the ledge.

Start as for Steve's project for 3 bolts then head right and up. Ponder your position from the bird ledge then slab, yes slab moves up the side pull flakes and victory jugs. Mostly jugs bar the start boulder.

Set by @benjenga, 25th Feb

Sport Project
9 ** Church Mouse

Dyno thru the roof and save some power for the finish. start left of G.R.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

31Sport 25m
10 * Grave Rat

Through the desperate roof and beyond

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

29Sport 25m
11 ** Spent Force

left of G.G. Climb sustained wall and through roof with some rests then lofty moves on the upper wall. Shares the start with G.R.

Great fun from recent repeats.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007

27Sport 20m
12 ** Gushing gargoyles

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

28Sport 18m
13 Feisty Phasmid

Left of the 23, tricky start then good wall before hard thru the roof.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

25Sport 18m
14 * Destined for Grayness

Starts to the left of the 24. Fun climbing.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

23Sport 12m
15 Impatient Transport

Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts.

FFA: lloyd wishart

FA: 2008

24Sport 12m
16 Freeway

Just left of project starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

23Sport 16m
17 * Fridge Lifting

Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

24Sport 15m
18 Welcome Alex

The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do fridge lifting instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Top rope 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
23 * Destined for Grayness Sport 12m
For Flake's sake Sport 14m
Freeway Sport 16m
Welcome Alex Top rope 15m
24 * Fridge Lifting Sport 15m
Impatient Transport Sport 12m
25 Feisty Phasmid Sport 18m
26 * Brixton Jamm Sport 15m, 10
27 ** Lofty Lungfish Sport 15m
** Spent Force Sport 20m
28 ** Gushing gargoyles Sport 18m
* Hokonui Henchman Sport 18m
29 * Grave Rat Sport 25m
Lloyd's Bolts, Steve's Muscles Sport 16m, 11
30 *** Radical Departures Sport 20m, 9
31 ** Church Mouse Sport 25m
? #Ledge life. (Project Jenga) Sport Project
Project Steve Sport Project 22m, 12