A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Departures (Upper) 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295903, -33.535302

Unique Features And Strengths:

The upper wall of the shady side. Doesn't see a whole lot of traffic but some very hard classic up there. Also some great easier routes down the northern end worth your attention on the walk out.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Lofty Lungfish

far end of ropes with triple belay. up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. backjump to clean

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27Sport 15m
2 Project Lloyd Wishart

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

Set by Lloyd Wishard

Sport Project 16m, 11
3 (Project Jenga) Brixton Jamm

Mmm this could be hard?? Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux off rest looks like its going to be very hard?? Double undercling madness.

Set by Jenga, 2014

Set by Jenga, 2014

Sport Project 15m
4 *** Radical Departures

One of the best routes at departures. Another of bells classic 30's After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

30Sport 20m, 9
5 * For Flake's sake

The OBVIOUS flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

23Sport 14m
6 * Hokonui Henchman

start at big flake and head up and right over bulge and in to blank overhanging corner and over the final roof

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

28Sport 18m
7 Project Steve

The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at bell…?

Sport Project 22m, 12
8 ** Church Mouse

Dyno thru the roof and save some power for the finish. start left of G.R.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

31Sport 25m
9 * Grave Rat

Through the desperate roof and beyond

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

29Sport 25m
10 ** spent force

left of G.G. up wall and thru roof with some rests. shared start with G.R.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007

27Sport 20m
11 ** Gushing gargoyles

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

28Sport 18m
12 Feisty Phasmid

Left of the 23, tricky start then good wall before hard thru the roof.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

25Sport 18m
13 ** Destined for Grayness

Starts to the left of the 24. Fun climbing.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

23Sport 12m
14 * Impatient Transport

Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts.

FFA: lloyd wishart

FA: 2008

24Sport 12m
15 Freeway

Just left of project starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

23Sport 16m
16 Project - Bye Bye Teddy

Funky orange radness for 3 bolts and then link back into 'WA'

FA: PROJECT - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 12m
17 Welcome Alex

1st first route on the ledge. Follow the orange streak. Hard goey start !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
23 ** Destined for Grayness Sport 12m
* For Flake's sake Sport 14m
Freeway Sport 16m
Welcome Alex Sport 12m
24 * Impatient Transport Sport 12m
25 Feisty Phasmid Sport 18m
27 ** Lofty Lungfish Sport 15m
** spent force Sport 20m
28 ** Gushing gargoyles Sport 18m
* Hokonui Henchman Sport 18m
29 * Grave Rat Sport 25m
30 *** Radical Departures Sport 20m, 9
31 ** Church Mouse Sport 25m
? (Project Jenga) Brixton Jamm Sport Project 15m
Project - Bye Bye Teddy Sport Project 12m
Project Lloyd Wishart Sport Project 16m, 11
Project Steve Sport Project 22m, 12