A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.295903, -33.535302
- Unique Features And Strengths:
The superb upper wall of the shady side.
Some very hard classic up there and some great easier routes down the northern end worth your attention on the walk out.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
Walk right onto the ledge before the decent rungs. Harness up to traverse alone the ledge, and be car full not to kick rock onto the climbers bellow.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
far end of ropes with triple belay. up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. backjump to clean
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011
Lloyd's Bolts, Steve's Muscles
Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.
FA: Steve Grokivc
Set by Lloyd Wishard
Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds.
Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot
Set by Jenga, 2014
Set by Jenga, 2014
FA: @benjenga, 26th Jan
One of the best routes at departures. Another of bells classic 30's
After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.
FFA: Steve Grkovic
For Flake's sake
The OBVIOUS flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.
FA: lloyd wishart, 2013
Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof.
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008
The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at bell…?
#Ledge life. (Project Jenga)
New line in the work off the ledge.
Start as for Steve's project for 3 bolts then head right and up. Ponder your position from the bird ledge then slab, yes slab moves up the side pull flakes and victory jugs. Mostly jugs bar the start boulder.
Set by @benjenga, 25th Feb
Dyno thru the roof and save some power for the finish. start left of G.R.
FFA: steve grkovic, 2010
Through the desperate roof and beyond
FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009
left of G.G. Climb sustained wall and through roof with some rests then lofty moves on the upper wall. Shares the start with G.R.
Great fun from recent repeats.
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007
Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.
FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009
Left of the 23, tricky start then good wall before hard thru the roof.
FA: lloyd wishart, 2009
Destined for Grayness
Starts to the left of the 24. Fun climbing.
FA: lloyd wishart, 2009
Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts.
FFA: lloyd wishart
Just left of project starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2011
Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff.
FA: Jason Lammers, 2014
The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do fridge lifting instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt.
FA: Jason Lammers, 2011
|23||Destined for Grayness||12m|
|For Flake's sake||14m|
|Lloyd's Bolts, Steve's Muscles||1116m,|
|?||#Ledge life. (Project Jenga)|