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Summary

This crag is a suntrap with the sun hitting by 9am, and is also surprisingly well protected from the wind (when its blowing 40-60km/h at Mt Boyce the base here is still quite ok, although further up t

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Description

Has a great trad classic and several sport routes which, since recent rebolting, are among the best of their grade in the entire mountains!

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Walk in as for Sail Away Wall to the bottom of the chopped steps and hand rails, then head left (SW) along the base of the cliff for a few hundred metres. For the Clockwork Orange area and beyond, it might be a little quicker to abseil in from below Upper Shipley, but unless you only want to do one route the abseil is arguably not worth the admin now that the track from Sail Away is becoming more well trodden.

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Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
27 *** The Unforgiven Sport 35m

Leftmost route on 'Nikita' wall. 28 if you go direct (after rebolt by Steve G), 27 if you snake around right the original way (by Mikl). Great rock, especially lower half.

FA: Mikl, rebolt and direct variant Steve Grkovic, 2000

2
29 * The Outlaw Sport 40m

Start up the unforgiven till the 4/5 bolt and head right.

FFA: S Grkovic, 2008

3
25 ** Nikita Sport 70m, 16

Pumper, follows obvious right leaning ramp. Now starts on the ground and stops at lower-offs at 35m. Needs 16 draws and 2 more for the anchor, and a 70m rope. The good hold for the hard move down low snapped in June 2013, decide for yourself whether this does anything to the grade.

FA: Mike Stacey did it at 25M1 in the age of lycra, Giles freed the start move, same grade (25)., 2000

4
24 ** Quran Calling Mixed 30m, 12

Starts approximately 100m left of Sausages and Lightbulbs, on left side of prominent arete (stay high and traverse along narrow shale ledge beneath undercut just past where the track turns left and climbs down to the lower tier). Gets early morning sun and goes into the shade after lunch.

Batman to the first jug then tip toe and crimp across the ramp and up thin wall to good holds. The climbing now gets easier up the left side long mega arête on bomber orange rock. Doubles of small cams up to .75 and some slings.

Set by Ben JengA., 2013

FFA: Ben Jenga, Paul Thompson, 2013

5
24 *** Sausages and Light Bulbs Sport 50m, 18

30m and 16 bolts plus anchors to lower offs, 50m up easy slab with a couple more bolts.

FFA: M law, S Johns, S Moon, 1994

6
26 ** Brisket Tugger Sport 50m

Obvious thin face and sexy looking blank corner. A bit glued up, but great climbing. Don't cop out to the arete at the top!

FA: Mikl in his orange spandex days., 1936

7
21 Shaken Not Stirred Trad 50m

Start: 50m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 15m (21) Corner and flake to roof. Out to ledge and belay.

  2. 20m (21) 'Flake' to break. Leftwards, then up right to ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Left and out.

FA: T.Williams,J.Smoothy, 1986

8
22 * Hooray for Fish Sport 32m

Long and varied. Not so great as a warm-up!

FA: Chris Cogsy, 2008

9
20 R Hot Fan Faronade Trad 45m

Start: 15m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (16) Start near fallen tree. Offwidth. Climb tree to wall above chockstone. Crack and wall to top of flake.

  2. 25m (20) Up ramp and wall to break. Slab to roof. Up.

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney,R.Chick, 1984

10
21 Blossoms Trad 50m

Up the tree, right to scoop, right to breaks. Left and up to ledge. Right to slab. up. 2 pitches.

Start: Right of HFF. Near the abseil landing.

FA: T.Williams, 1986

11

Start: 13m left of 'Clockwork Orange'.

FA: Bennet,Haines,Myers,Danielle, 1988

12
20 *** Clockwork Orange Trad 61m

Start: Orange corner 55m right of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner to break, left to ledge, wall and stance.

  2. 25m (20) Slab to crack. Corner, around bulge. Crack to ledge. Left along the ledge to groove.

  3. 16m (15) Up the groove.

FA: K.Bell,R.Lassman, 1972

13
18 * Lambeg Drums Trad 90m

Start: As for CO.

  1. 30m (18) As for CO to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Slab, diagonally left slab to arete.

  3. 35m (18) Up onto the slab, left of bulge and up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

14
25 The Prozac Years Sport 60m

3 pitches with a nightmarish mantel at the end of the second pitch. Some of the bolts are dodgy until rebolted.

FFA: G Child, G Bradbury, 1996

15
17 M3 Orange Marmalade Aid 55m

Start: Corner 8m right of CO.

  1. 15m (17) Crack to ledge.

  2. 25m (17 M3) Wall to bulge, over this onto ledge and crack. Up to roof, loose (?) flake the ledge below roof. Right to ledge and tree. THIS PITCH MAY HAVE BEEN FREED!

  3. 15m (17) Up wall.

FA: R.Lassman,K.Bell, 1972

16
20 R Aquapuppy Trad 30m

Start: As for OM.

  1. 20m (20) Corner to traverse. Across roof. Take care! Onto arete to ledge.

  2. 10m (19) Wall and slab. Rap here. OR traverse right to gully.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1988

17
19 R Rewind Trad 55m

Start: 25m right of CO.

  1. 20m (19) Bulge. Left up crack to ledge. Belay in the gully on the right.

  2. 20m (19) Right around arete, up and right up ramp to ledge under roof. Take care! Up to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1987

18
23 * The Flex Trad 50m

Up. Careful with flake. Up, then left to break. Right to arete. Up. Finish as for R.

Start: Faint corner with black wall below flake.

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

19
21 Wildlife Trad 50m

Start: 3m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (21) Faint crack to slab. Belay as for 'Twinkle Toes'.

  2. 30m (21) Up and left. Travers right at steepness to ledge. Up.

FA: S.Moon,B.Cameron, 1986

20
22 R Twinkle Toes Trad 40m

Start: 20m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (22) Middle of black wall to ledge, slight left to belay. Take wires!

  2. 20m (22) Slab up and right to tree!

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

21
23 Bowstring Trad 55m

Start: 100m RIGHT of CO. White right facing corner.

  1. 15m (23) Crack to offwidth roof. Corner to stance on left.

  2. 30m (18) Right into crack to big slab under roof. Right to break at end of the roof.

  3. 10m (18) Bulge and up.

FFA: W.Baird

FA: (Lassman,Bell), 2000

22
23 Pancho Villa Trad 30m

Start: Yellow roofed corner 12m right of B.

  1. 20m (23) Corner, traverse right to footledge, right along break, up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) Traverse right.

FA: T.Williams,R.Lebreton, 1988

23
17 Caterpillar Girl Trad 35m

Start: Narrow wall 70m right of PV.

  1. 15m (16) Up left side of wall, step right. Up bulge and wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Wall and arete.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

24
22 Cindy Sherman Trad 20m

Now, she was a girl...

Start: 10m LEFT of the ESCAPE ROUTE. Corner.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

25
9 Escape Route Trad 20m

The route to do here if you have to! Take care!

Start: Right of 'Caterpillar Girl'. Below the big red roof. 10m above the track. To freedom.

26
21 The Little Prince Trad 30m

Start: 2m right of ER corner.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

27
20 The Human Factor Trad 75m

Start: 80m right of 'Pancho Villa' at wide crack right of roof capped red wall.

  1. 40m (20) Corner crack 10m, left to centre of wall. Up through breaks to big one below the roof. Left to belay.

  2. 35m (19) Up groove and corner.

FA: S.Moon,G.Moore,C.Martin, 1984

28
21 Slingshot Trad

Start: Finger crack right of THF.

29
24 ** Nuclear Winter Trad 45m

Start: 35m RIGHT of THF. Short steep corner.

  1. 20m (23) Corner to ledge, right and up wall to belay on sloping ledge.

  2. 25m (24) Left, up then traverse to arete. Up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1986

30
21 Sidewinder Trad

Start: Right of NW. Offwidth.

31
19 The Green Room Trad 30m

Start: Middle of 3 high corner cracks.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

32
21 The Untouchable Trad 30m

Up TGR. Corner to crack. Right to arete. Up.

Start: As for TGR.

FA: T.Williams,G.Bradbury, 1986

33

Start: 15m right of 'Sidewinder'.

  1. 35m (23) Stick clip. Follow bolts. Traverse left. Up corner. Take long slings!

  2. 20m (15) Right from belay and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden,T.Williams, 1986

34

Crack right of SVDM

35

3m left to wall and narrow ledge, crack, up and mantle. Diagonally right and up (poor pro!). Diagonally left up ramp and corner to orange overlap.Traverse around nose, up right side of arete. Take wires!

Start: At SCC anchor 1.

FA: D.Grey,B.Maxwell,R.Taylor,I.Collins, 1985

36
25 ** Psycho Killer Trad 35m

Start: 5m up SCC. Traverse left and up. Finish as for SVDM or rap.

FA: M.Baker,J.Smoothy, 1989

37

Start: 10m right of SSC. Grey Wall

  1. 35m (23) Thin crack. Wall to ledge. Traverse left to ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Corner. Take Care!

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

38
20 Quite Effete Trad 60m

Start: Roof crack 30m right.

  1. 20m (20) Up to roof, right 10m, up to break and belay.

  2. 20m (20) Up, left to orange corner/flake. Thin break. Left to arete.

  3. 20m (18) 'Arete' and wall.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

39
21 Southern Closs Trad 60m

Start: From QE anchor 1.

  1. 25m (20) As for QE then right to bolt. To arete and up to ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Straight up.

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

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