Site navigation

Section navigation

Description:© (cogsy)

28 if you go direct at 5th bolt, 27 if you snake around right the original way (by Mikl). Great rock, especially the lower two-thirds. 70m rope required for lower-off. Careful with drag (e.g. back-clean 3rd), its not enough to bother the leader but stops the belayer from giving a soft catch off the crux. Also best not to leave the gear on, the top of the route has recently been badly scarred by windmilling quickdraws.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mikl, rebolt & direct variant Steve Grkovic, 2000


Located in Shipley Lower approx:
Lat/Long: -33.641556,150.267809

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

27 Community registered grade
27 *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 92%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sustained hard stoked super beautiful good brilliant amazing great classic awesome bad rest fingers arete hands traverse

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on The Unforgiven (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.