Showing all 36 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
24 | ★★ Quran Calling
Starts approximately 50m R of Nikita, 40m left of Sausages and Lightbulbs, on left side of prominent arete (get to the start of SAL then head L, stay high and traverse along narrow shale ledge beneath undercut). Gets early morning sun and goes into the shade after lunch. Batman to the first jug then tip toe and crimp across the ramp and up thin wall to good holds. The climbing now gets easier up the left side long mega arête on bomber orange rock. Needs 2 cams, or 4 if you double up. BD #0.4 to .75 and some slings. There can be a seep from the anchor running down 1-2m left of the arete, but don’t let it deter you because it doesn’t affect the climbing at all. Set: Ben JengA., 2013 FFA: Ben Jenga & Paul Thompson, 2013 | 30m, 12 | |||
21 | Shaken Not Stirred
Start: 50m LEFT of the waterfall.
FA: T.Williams & J.Smoothy, 1986 | 50m, 3 | |||
20 R | Hot Fan Faronade
"Steep off width near fallen tree" - 1990s guidebook [tree may be long gone]. Start 15m right of the waterfall.
FA: C.Martin, A.Penney & R.Chick, 1984 | 45m, 2, 2 | |||
21 | Blossoms
Start just right of HFF.
FA: T.Williams, 1986 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Lambeg Drums
Start: As for CO.
FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984 | 90m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ Clockwork Orange
1
18
20m
2
20
25m
3
15
16m
One of the Bluies crack classics. Orange corner 55m right of the waterfall. The first pitch is only adequately protected with small wires and should be treated with caution if this grade is your limit. The 2nd & 3rd pitches have plenty of gear!
FA: K.Bell & R.Lassman, 1972 | 61m, 3 | |||
22/23 | ★★ Orange Marmalade
Start: Corner 8m right of CO.
FA: R.Lassman & K.Bell, 1972 FFA: Keith Bell Nick Bendeli, 1990 | 55m, 3, 1 | |||
20 R | Aquapuppy
Start: As for OM.
FA: R.Lebreton & T.Williams, 1988 | 30m, 2, 2 | |||
19 R | Rewind
Start: 25m right of CO.
FA: R.Lebreton & T.Williams, 1987 | 55m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ The Flex
Up. Careful with flake. Up, then left to break. Right to arete. Up. Finish as for R. Start: Faint corner with black wall below flake. FA: T.Williams & S.Moon, 1986 | 50m | |||
21 | Wildlife
Start: 3m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.
FA: S.Moon & B.Cameron, 1986 | 50m, 2 | |||
22 R | Twinkle Toes
Start: 20m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.
FA: T.Williams & S.Moon, 1986 | 40m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★★ Bowstring
Start 100m RIGHT of CO at spectacular right facing flake crack topped by offwidth roof. The hidden second pitch is also great! Keith Bell had led the first pitch free earlier but seconds did not follow. He came down off a #4tube chock which was left in place. This was the only aided pitch on the climb.
FA: Lassman & Bell, 1972 FFA: W.Baird & D Wagland, 1983 | 55m, 3 | |||
23 | Pancho Villa
Start: Yellow roofed corner 12m right of B.
FA: T.Williams & R.Lebreton, 1988 | 30m, 2, 2 | |||
16 | Dads Army
Sculptured crack 40 metres right of PV just left of initials.
FA: K. Bell, R. Lassman, R.Reynolds, G. Harrison & G Mortimer, 1975 | 65m, 2 | |||
17 | Caterpillar Girl
Start: Narrow wall 70m right of PV.
FA: D.Haines & R.Lebreton, 1988 | 35m, 2 | |||
22 | Cindy Sherman
Now, she was a girl... Start: 10m LEFT of the ESCAPE ROUTE. Corner. FA: D.Haines & R.Lebreton, 1988 | 20m | |||
9 | Escape Route
The route to do here if you have to! Take care! Start: Right of 'Caterpillar Girl'. Below the big red roof. 10m above the track. To freedom. | 20m | |||
21 | The Little Prince
Start: 2m right of ER corner. FA: M.Myers, 1988 | 30m | |||
THF mystery corner
Very hard looking fused corner with a single bolt down low just right of The Little Prince, on the left side of the amazing big blank orange wall. Initialed as THF, but clearly isn't The Human Factor. Where is goes beyond the initial corner is unknown - no more bolts are evident. | 1 | ||||
20 | The Human Factor
Start: 80m right of 'Pancho Villa' at wide crack right of roof capped red wall (although THF is marked at the finger crack/seam)
FA: S.Moon, G.Moore & C.Martin, 1984 | 75m, 2 | |||
21 | Slingshot
Start: Finger crack right of THF. Climbed in 2 pitches (both led). FA: R. Reynolds & K.Bell, 1978 | ||||
23 M1 | ★ Maxbond
Somewhat of a construction exercise. Ahead of its time! Mostly carrots (and a couple of fixed brackets) but bring a 0.5 to get to the first bolt.
FA: Giles Bradbury, 1984 | 45m | |||
24 | ★★★ Nuclear Winter
Mega in an old school, wandery, adventurous kinda way. Mostly carrot bolts (and a few fixed brackets) but bring cams 0.3 to 0.75 to keep it sane. Start 35m RIGHT of THF at short steep corner lurking at right side of major orange wall.
FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1986 | 55m, 2 | |||
21 | Sidewinder
Start: Right of NW. Offwidth. | ||||
18 | Oranje
Starts 5 metres right of Sidewinder. The 3rd pitch of this climb is the variant finish to StCC which precedes the one recorded as 42. It was climbed without bolts.
FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1972 | 72m, 3, 2 | |||
19 | The Green Room
Start: Middle of 3 high corner cracks. FA: T.Williams & T.Carroll, 1986 | 30m | |||
21 | The Untouchable
Up TGR. Corner to crack. Right to arete. Up. Start: As for TGR. FA: T.Williams & G.Bradbury, 1986 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★★ Psycho Killer
Start: 5m up SCC. Traverse left and up. Finish as for SVDM or rap. FA: M.Baker & J.Smoothy, 1989 | 35m | |||
18 R | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack Variant
3m left to wall and narrow ledge, crack, up and mantle. Diagonally right and up (poor pro!). Diagonally left up ramp and corner to orange overlap.Traverse around nose, up right side of arete. Take wires! Start: At SCC anchor 1. FA: D.Grey, B.Maxwell, R.Taylor & I.Collins, 1985 | 40m | |||
17 | ★★ St Clemmen's Crack
Crack right of SVDM Up obvious crack through minor choss to DBB then right and around roof. Quite good. | 50m | |||
23 | Whinge, Cringe, Plunge
Start: 10m right of SSC. Grey Wall
FA: T.Williams & L.Closs, 1986 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | Quite Effete
Start: Roof crack 30m right.
FA: T.Williams & T.Carroll, 1986 | 60m, 3 | |||
21 | Southern Closs
Start: From QE anchor 1.
FA: T.Williams & L.Closs, 1986 | 60m, 2 | |||
7/8 | Exit Stage Right
Grey black slab about 200 metres right of St Clemmens Crack immediately right of a spectacular orange/yellow wall. Used to solo out of Lower Shipley.
FA: K Bell & R Lassman, 1972 | 40m | |||
15 | Hidden Corner
Corner crack about 100 metres right of Exit Stage Right.
FA: K.Bell & J. Fantini, 1974 | 40m |
Showing all 36 routes.