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Description

Stay alert when lowering the leader because they will land on the wrong side of the fence, on the slippery slope leading down to the 50m cliff below. And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. It is not a designated off-leash area: dogs must be leashed at all times. Also, the BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the observed impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. More considerate dog owners therefore might like to think about not bringing your dog at all.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 ** Leaning Power Teaser Sport 15m

Batman start.

Start: About 50m past Cleopatra's Bath and about 80 metres before the fence at the start of Walls Ledge.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

2
Project Sport

There's a lonely line of spider-webby ringbolts up the wall about 20m L of Pooferator. Bolted by Vince Day and now open? No doubt it'll be hard.

3
31 ** Pooferator Sport 15m

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2002

4
31 Truck Stop 31 Sport 18m

Links the crux of Poof into the crux of 'Equaliser'.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2004

5
28 *** Equaliser Sport 20m, 6

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

6
28 De-Equaliser Sport

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

7

Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess.

FA: S. Grkovic, 2002

8
29 * The Horseshoe Sport 18m, 6

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

FA: Vince Day, 2009

9
28 * Fabricator Sport 18m

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

FA: B.Littleford

10
29 ** Cagney and Lacey Sport 15m

Up 'Equaliser' to hole before 3rd bolt, then R to thin stuff and overlap.

FA: Garth Miller, 1998

11
28 ** Demoraliser Sport 15m

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

FA: J.Clark, 2001

12
27 * Iron Mike Sport 15m, 7

The obvious 'line' on the side of the crag. Desperate side pulling. In early 2011 some crux holds came off so now its certainly not soft for the grade.

Start: Start below the right facing corner and seam. Stickclip and batman to first bolt. Use long draws on 2nd & 3rd bolts so your rope doesn't scrub on the flake.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1995

13
29 ** Decodyfier Sport 20m

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Start: Start as for 'Iron Mike'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

14
27 * The Weakest Link Trad 22m

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. Unfortunately a hold has been broken and the climb now is better considered 27. The crux is bolt protected.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

15
26 * Slay Ride Sport 20m

FA: L.Wishart, 1999