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Description

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector should really be called Grand Junction sector or Displaced Persons sector, given that those routes were done more than a decade before Golliwog.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Start: Somewhere about 30m left of Supercal.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

2
24 * Krusty the Climb Sport 20m

Shame about the finish.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1999

3
26 * Grand Junction Sport 35m

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Should get more traffic, the bolts are a bit spaced but it's still just a sport route!

Start: Start up the black's ladder just before (left of) the right hand end of the old railing. The initials "GJ" are painted on the rock 1m left. Stick clip recommended.

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

4
28 ** The Eviscerator Sport 30m

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2001

5

USE A 60M+ ROPE - at least one climber has gone off the end of their rope on this route and were lucky they didn't go off the 50m cliff below. A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux.

Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: S. Grkovic, 1999

6
25 ** Silently Flying By Sport 25m

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. Stick clip recommended.

FA: M.Turnbull, 2000

7

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended. The middle route off this log. Needs plenty of cams to supplement the bolts.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

8

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

9
23 *** Weak as I am Sport 22m

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall. Start about 15m R of AAA at the next log. Stick clip recommended. After you step L from the shared start, the next 2 bolts are in very weird spots

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

10

Up the log, then straight up.

Start: Start as for WaIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

11
24 * Displaced Persons Sport 40m

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Good long training route.

Start: Start as for WaIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Moon, J.Smoothy, 1986

12
23 ** Mental Mantle Sport 27m

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

13
25 * Dance Like a Mother Sport 40m

USE A 60M ROPE.

Start: Righthand route.

FA: M. Stacey, G. Bradbury, 1992