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Description

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector should really be called Grand Junction sector or Displaced Persons sector, given that those routes were done more than a decade before Golliwog.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Start: Somewhere about 30m left of Supercal.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

2
24 * Krusty the Climb Sport 20m

The longest stick clip at Shipley, and the batman is quite a rope shredder too.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1999

The next three routes share the same start off the access log with a fork at the top.

3
26 * Grand Junction Sport 25m

Good, but not as popular as it could be due to some poorly positioned bolts.

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

4
28 ** The Eviscerator Sport 30m

Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2001

5

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux.

Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: S. Grkovic, 1999

5m right. The next three routes share the same start up the 2nd access log.

6
25 ** Silently Flying By Sport 25m

Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. The crux will have you silently flying. Bye!

FA: M.Turnbull, 2000

7

From top of log, ooze rightwards to the line of rings, then upwards, ever upwards. A handful of cams will reduce some potentially dangerous runouts. Under the top roof there is a fixed carabiner - keep climbing through the roof (awkward) to chains at top of the cliff. Redirect through carabiner under roof to help clean it. A 60m rope works, tie a knot.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

8

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

The next three routes share the same start up the 3rd access log.

9
23 *** Weak as I am Sport 22m

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall. Start about 15m R of AAA at the next log. Stick clip recommended. After you step L from the shared start, the next 2 bolts are in very weird spots

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

10
23 ** Golliwog Grades Sport 25m

Up the log, then straight up. Great moves with a powerful little slab to a tricky, annoying, probably undergraded finish.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

11
24 * Displaced Persons Sport 33m

USE A 60M+ ROPE (tie a knot). Good long training route. Start as for WAIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Moon & J.Smoothy, 1986

The next four routes share the same start up the 4th access log.

12
23 ** Mental Mantle Sport 27m

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

13
25 * Dance Like a Mother Sport 40m 2

USE A 60M ROPE.

Start: Righthand route.

FA: M. Stacey & G. Bradbury, 1992