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USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector should really be called Grand Junction sector or Displaced Persons sector, given that those routes were done more than a decade before Golliwog.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start: Somewhere about 30m left of Supercal.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

24 * Krusty the Climb Sport 20m

Shame about the finish.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1999

26 * Grand Junction Sport 35m

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Should get more traffic, the bolts are a bit spaced but it's still just a sport route!

Start: Start up the black's ladder just before (left of) the right hand end of the old railing. The initials "GJ" are painted on the rock 1m left. Stick clip recommended.

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

28 ** The Eviscerator Sport 30m


Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2001


USE A 60M+ ROPE - at least one climber has gone off the end of their rope on this route and were lucky they didn't go off the 50m cliff below. A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux.

Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: S. Grkovic, 1999

25 ** Silently Flying By Sport 25m


Start: Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. Stick clip recommended.

FA: M.Turnbull, 2000


USE A 60M+ ROPE. Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended. The middle route off this log. Needs plenty of cams to supplement the bolts.

FA: M.Baker, 1989



Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

23 *** Weak as I am Sport 22m

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall. Start about 15m R of AAA at the next log. Stick clip recommended. After you step L from the shared start, the next 2 bolts are in very weird spots

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999


Up the log, then straight up.

Start: Start as for WaIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

24 * Displaced Persons Sport 40m

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Good long training route.

Start: Start as for WaIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Moon & J.Smoothy, 1986

23 ** Mental Mantle Sport 27m


Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

25 * Dance Like a Mother Sport 40m 2


Start: Righthand route.

FA: M. Stacey & G. Bradbury, 1992