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Routes in Grand Junction Wall

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
27 Isle of the Green-Hatted Wombat

Start about 20m left of Krusty the Climb, and 20m R of Slay Ride, at a prominent red shale blob. Stick clip a staple above the vegetated undercut, traverse 8m to the right, then up to an anchor in the black rock about 5m from the top.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

Sport 25m
24 Krusty the Climb

The longest stick clip at Shipley, and the batman is quite a rope shredder too. Start 20m L of Supercal, at a gap in the handrail where it bends to a post embedded in a boulder.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1999

Sport 20m
26 Grand Junction

Another route that is unfairly overshadowed by its 'three star' neighbours. Up the log and first two bolts as for The Eviscerator then traverse 5m L to the lefthand line of bolts.

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

Sport 25m
28 The Eviscerator

Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day. Straight up off the log.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2001

Sport 30m
26 Supercallousfragileextradosage

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux. Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended, then take the righthand line of bolts off this log.

FA: S. Grkovic, 1999

Sport 25m, 13
25 Silently Flying By

Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. The crux will have you silently flying. Bye!

FA: M.Turnbull, 2000

Sport 25m
24 Land of Green Navels

Needs medium cams (BD #0.5-2). There's no need to touch the sandy broken flake R of the 2nd last bolt. Keep climbing through the roof (past the fixed carabiner) to chain anchor. A 60m rope works.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

Mixed trad 30m, 10
23 Alliterating Austrian Ostrich

Long, sustained - excellent. One of the longest routes at Shipley. Start as for SFB for a bolt then long traverse right, hard crux, then pump until oblivion with a left trend through the steepness to finish. USE A 60M+ ROPE minimum.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

Sport 30m
23 Weak as I am

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall - sustained but no definite crux (unlike many routes on this wall). Start about 15m R of AAO at the next log. This is the left line of the three.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

Sport 22m, 13
23 Golliwog Grades

Up the log (stick clip recommended, as with all the log starts), then straight up. Great moves with a powerful little slab to a tricky, annoying, probably undergraded finish.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

Sport 25m, 13
24 Displaced Persons

USE A 60M+ ROPE (tie a knot). Good long route but often dirty from runoff. Start as for WAIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Moon & J.Smoothy, 1986

Sport 33m
23 Mental Mantle

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

Sport 27m
25 Dance Like a Mother

Right hand route off the log. Mostly cruisy grade 22ish climbing - then a final sting in the tail at the end. Use a 60m rope!

FA: M. Stacey & G. Bradbury, 1992

Sport 30m

Showing all 13 routes.

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