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Description

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The next three routes share the same start off the 5th access log.

1

Start: Left-most route off the 5th access tree.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

2
25 *** Loop the Loop Sport 25m

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains.

FA: C. Peisker & T. Williams, 1986

3
25 ** Burning Bridges Sport 25m

Start: 5th access tree. As for previous, then traverse hard right and up.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1986

Barnstorming to Hot Flyer share the same start.

4
27 * Barnstorming Sport 27m

As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up to where a wide orange streak is passed with, umm, difficulty.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

5

The original start to HF. Start as for 'Hot Flyer' but traverse left after the first ring.

FA: J. Smoothy & C. Peisker, 1985

6
19 ** Hot Flyer pitch 1 Sport 18m

Rap off after slab

7
23 *** Hot Flyer Sport 25m

Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below). Twisties added 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy & C. Peisker, 1985

8

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

10
22 *** Lardy Lady's Lats Sport 25m, 13

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

11
19 ** Jack High Sport 20m

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. Safety notice: Rap rings are getting worn and sharp, take care. Do not top-rope directly through anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy, M & Stacey, 1986

12

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab (techy start!) to anchors on ledge.

13
24 ** Flaming Flamingo Sport 25m

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab to anchors on ledge, but keep going up the big L-facing corner up high.

FA: J.Smoothy, C.Peisker & S.Moon, 1985

14
21 * Girly Germs Sport 15m

1.5m R. At the third bolt, you can go either way. Good solid climbing with a few tricky bits.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

15
23 * Sexy Mexi Sport 15m

Up Girly Germs to the second bolt and go right. Committing finish.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Baker, 2000

16

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

Set by Mike Law

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2006

The next four routes share the same start (two steel rungs as steps to begin).

17
22 Sexy When Slippery Sport 15m

The left-most route sharing the start of Language.

FA: M.Garben, 2002

18
25 Time Slips By Sport 25m

As for SWS to 5th ring, then find a way through the overlap at its right end and onto the headwall above. As for Language then traverse left to 1st line of rings. An abandoned project which has had numerous ascents.

Set by Dave Stone

19
24 *** Language of Desire Sport 30m

The original classic here. It's easy to get off route with four routes branching from the same start. This is the only one to finish up the headwall on FHs. A small cam between bolt 6 and 7 is helpful.

FA: M. Scheel & C. Martin, 1985

20

Excellent sustained crimping. As for Language, heading right at third bolt.

FA: V.Petersen, 2002