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Description

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

2
25 *** Loop the Loop Sport 25m

A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains. Twisties added 2004.

Start: Middle route off the 4th access tree. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (ie the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish if you have good footwork, no regard for your fingertips, and skin to spare.

FA: C. Peisker, T. Williams, 1986

3
25 ** Burning Bridges Sport 40m

Start: 4th access tree.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1986

4
27 * Barnstorming Sport 27m

Start: As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

5

Original start to HF.

Start: As for 'Hot Flyer' but traverse left after the first ring.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

6
20 ** Hot Flyer pitch 1 Sport 18m

Rap off after slab

7
23 *** Hot Flyer Sport 35m

Twisties added 2004

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

8

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

10

Good fun route.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

11
19 ** Jack High Sport 20m

Rap rings are getting worn and sharp. Best to rappel and clean, instead of lowering off. DO NOT TOP ROPE THROUGH ANCHORS.

FA: J.Smoothy,M,Stacey, 1986

12

rap off after slab

13
24 ** Flaming Flamingo Sport 35m

Has anchors at the break. 19 to here.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Peisker,S.Moon, 1985

14
21 * Girly Germs Sport 15m

Start on the left and traverse in - do NOT trample (what's left of) the hanging swamp! Then up, past one quite thin bit.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

15
23 * Sexy Mexi Sport 15m

Start: Start as for GG on the left and traverse in - do NOT trample (what's left of) the hanging swamp!

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Baker, 2000

16

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2006

17
22 Sexy When Slippery Sport 15m

Start: As for Language but traverse left to the 2nd line of rings.

FA: M.Garben, 2002

18
25 Time Slips By Sport 25m

Bolted more than 4 years ago! Has actually been climbed by a number of people who believe a time limit on projects of 3 seasons is enough. Equipped by Dave Stone.

Start: As for Language then traverse left to 1st line of rings.

19
24 *** Language of Desire Sport 35m

Awesome. Ring bolts all the way.

FA: M. Scheel, C. Martin, 1985

20

As for Language but head right. Now has its own anchors. Awesome !!

FA: V.Petersen, 2002