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Table of contents

1. Hot Flyer Wall 20 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271021, -33.638965

Description:© (secretary)

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Bolt and the Beautiful

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

25 Sport 25m
2 *** Loop the Loop

A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains. Twisties added 2004.

Start: Middle route off the 4th access tree. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (ie the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish if you have good footwork, no regard for your fingertips, and skin to spare.

FA: C. Peisker, T. Williams, 1986

25 Sport 25m
3 ** Burning Bridges

Start: 4th access tree.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1986

25 Sport 40m
4 * Barnstorming

Start: As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27 Sport 27m
5 Original Hot Flyer / Weekend Warrior

Original start to HF.

Start: As for 'Hot Flyer' but traverse left after the first ring.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

19 Sport 15m
6 ** Hot Flyer pitch 1

Rap off after slab

20 Sport 18m
7 *** Hot Flyer

Twisties added 2004

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

23 Sport 35m
8 ** Hot Flyer Direct Finish

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

22 Sport 35m
9 ** Lady Lardy's Lats pitch 1 20 Sport 18m
10 *** The Lardy Lady's Lats

Good fun route.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

22 Sport 25m
11 ** Jack High

Rap rings are getting worn and sharp. Best to rappel and clean, instead of lowering off. DO NOT TOP ROPE THROUGH ANCHORS.

FA: J.Smoothy,M,Stacey, 1986

19 Sport 20m
12 * Flaming Flamingo pitch 1

rap off after slab

20 Sport 18m
13 ** Flaming Flamingo

Has anchors at the break. 19 to here.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Peisker,S.Moon, 1985

24 Sport 35m
14 * Girly Germs

Start on the left and traverse in - do NOT trample (what's left of) the hanging swamp! Then up, past one quite thin bit.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Sport 15m
15 * Sexy Mexi

Start: Start as for GG on the left and traverse in - do NOT trample (what's left of) the hanging swamp!

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Baker, 2000

23 Sport 15m
16 ** Haunted Night Time Run

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2006

27 Sport 25m
17 Sexy When Slippery

Start: As for Language but traverse left to the 2nd line of rings.

FA: M.Garben, 2002

22 Sport 15m
18 Time Slips By

Bolted more than 4 years ago! Has actually been climbed by a number of people who believe a time limit on projects of 3 seasons is enough. Equipped by Dave Stone.

Start: As for Language then traverse left to 1st line of rings.

25 Sport 25m
19 *** Language of Desire

Easy to get off route with four routes branching from the same start. This is the only one to finish up the headwall on FHs.

FA: M. Scheel, C. Martin, 1985

24 Sport 30m
20 *** A Streaker Named Desire

As for Language but head right. Now has its own anchors. Awesome !!

FA: V.Petersen, 2002

23 Sport 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
19 ** Jack High Sport 20m
Original Hot Flyer Sport 15m
20 * Flaming Flamingo pitch 1 Sport 18m
** Hot Flyer pitch 1 Sport 18m
** Lady Lardy's Lats pitch 1 Sport 18m
21 * Girly Germs Sport 15m
22 ** Hot Flyer Direct Finish Sport 35m
Sexy When Slippery Sport 15m
*** The Lardy Lady's Lats Sport 25m
23 *** A Streaker Named Desire Sport 25m
*** Hot Flyer Sport 35m
* Sexy Mexi Sport 15m
24 ** Flaming Flamingo Sport 35m
*** Language of Desire Sport 30m
25 ** Burning Bridges Sport 40m
*** Loop the Loop Sport 25m
** The Bolt and the Beautiful Sport 25m
Time Slips By Sport 25m
27 * Barnstorming Sport 27m
** Haunted Night Time Run Sport 25m