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Table of contents

1. Hot Flyer Wall 20 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271021, -33.638965

Description:© (secretary)

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next three routes share the same start off the 5th access log.

1 ** The Bolt and the Beautiful

Start: Left-most route off the 5th access tree.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

25 Sport 25m
2 *** Loop the Loop

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains.

FA: C. Peisker, T. Williams, 1986

25 Sport 25m
3 ** Burning Bridges

Start: 5th access tree. As for previous, then traverse hard right and up.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1986

25 Sport 25m

Barnstorming to Hot Flyer share the same start.

4 * Barnstorming

As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up to where a wide orange streak is passed with, umm, difficulty.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27 Sport 27m
5 Original Hot Flyer / Weekend Warrior

The original start to HF. Start as for 'Hot Flyer' but traverse left after the first ring.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

19 Sport 15m
6 ** Hot Flyer pitch 1

Rap off after slab

19 Sport 18m
7 *** Hot Flyer

Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below). Twisties added 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

23 Sport 25m
8 * Hot Flyer Direct Finish

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

22 Sport 25m
9 ** Lardy Lady's Lats pitch 1 19 Sport 18m
10 *** Lardy Lady's Lats

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

22 Sport 25m, 13
11 ** Jack High

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. Safety notice: Rap rings are getting worn and sharp, take care. Do not top-rope directly through anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy,M,Stacey, 1986

19 Sport 20m
12 * Flaming Flamingo pitch 1

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab (techy start!) to anchors on ledge.

19 Sport 18m
13 ** Flaming Flamingo

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab to anchors on ledge, but keep going up the big L-facing corner up high.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Peisker,S.Moon, 1985

24 Sport 25m
14 * Girly Germs

1.5m R. At the third bolt, you can go either way. Good solid climbing with a few tricky bits.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Sport 15m
15 * Sexy Mexi

Up Girly Germs to the second bolt and go right. Committing finish.

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Baker, 2000

23 Sport 15m
16 ** Haunted Night Time Run

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

Set by Mike Law

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2006

27 Sport 25m

The next four routes share the same start (two steel rungs as steps to begin).

17 Sexy When Slippery

The left-most route sharing the start of Language.

FA: M.Garben, 2002

22 Sport 15m
18 Time Slips By

As for SWS to 5th ring, then find a way through the overlap at its right end and onto the headwall above. As for Language then traverse left to 1st line of rings. An abandoned project which has had numerous ascents.

Set by Dave Stone

25 Sport 25m
19 *** Language of Desire

The original classic here. It's easy to get off route with four routes branching from the same start. This is the only one to finish up the headwall on FHs. A small cam between bolt 6 and 7 is helpful.

FA: M. Scheel, C. Martin, 1985

24 Sport 30m
20 *** A Streaker Named Desire

Excellent sustained crimping. As for Language, heading right at third bolt.

FA: V.Petersen, 2002

23 Sport 25m, 13

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
19 * Flaming Flamingo pitch 1 Sport 18m
** Hot Flyer pitch 1 Sport 18m
** Jack High Sport 20m
** Lardy Lady's Lats pitch 1 Sport 18m
Original Hot Flyer Sport 15m
21 * Girly Germs Sport 15m
22 * Hot Flyer Direct Finish Sport 25m
*** Lardy Lady's Lats Sport 25m, 13
Sexy When Slippery Sport 15m
23 *** A Streaker Named Desire Sport 25m, 13
*** Hot Flyer Sport 25m
* Sexy Mexi Sport 15m
24 ** Flaming Flamingo Sport 25m
*** Language of Desire Sport 30m
25 ** Burning Bridges Sport 25m
*** Loop the Loop Sport 25m
** The Bolt and the Beautiful Sport 25m
Time Slips By Sport 25m
27 * Barnstorming Sport 27m
** Haunted Night Time Run Sport 25m