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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

A few metres to the right of Language at the large boulder. Up trending left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

As previous then straight up.

FA: J. Smoothy & C. Martin, 1985

Start as for previous route, traverse right to 'War Babies' anchor then up!

FA: G.James, 1985

Popular and sequency. Start off right end of the boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

Starts just right of 'War Babies' and joins 'War Babies' just before the ledge. Not as good as 'War Babies' and not any easier.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

2m R of DALD beneath carrot. There's a few more carrots. Take #3.5 SLCD.

FA: S Camps, 1986

The vegetated flake.

Medium cams to carrot, then up past undercling flake.

The yellow streak. Fun. Rings.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

All rings. Looks lichenous but climbs really well.

FA: P Balint & J Reily, 1989

2m R of DAC. Not good.

2m R again at the closed flake above R end of boulders. 2 pitches?!

Rings. Left of the 'Grey Slab' down on the main track Short little thing up to the R end of the half-height vegetated ledge with hidden anchor.

FA: C.Hale & M.Shipton, 1985

Start: Carrots to the left of 'Grey Slab' ledge. This is a mixed route that requires gear, particularly small to medium cams.

FA: C.Hale & M.Shipton, 1985


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