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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 ** Form One Lane Sport 30m

Now has its own anchors.

Start: A few metres to the right of Language at the large boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

2
24 * No U-Turn Sport 20m

lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Martin, 1985

3
22 * No Right Turn Sport 20m

Start as for previous route, traverse right to 'War Babies' anchor then up!

FA: G.James, 1985

4
22 * War Babies Sport 20m

Popular.

Start: Right end of the boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

5

Starts just right of 'War Babies' and joins 'War Babies' just before the ledge. Not as good as 'War Babies' and not any easier.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

6
23 The Storm Unknown 20m
7
20 Eating Raoul Unknown 20m
9
21 * Scramble Syndrome Sport 20m

Good moves but the good stuff ends too quickly. Rebolted 2006, this should make it a much more popular climb.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

10
21 Do Androids Care Sport 15m

FA: P Balint, J Reily, 1989

11
21 Stop Throwing Dogs Unknown 25m
12
21 Island of Doubt Unknown 23m
13
17 Pluck the Duck Sport 12m

Left of the 'Grey Slab' down on the main track Short little thing up to the vegetated ledge.

FA: C.Hale,M.Shipton, 1985

14

Start: Carrots to the left of 'Grey Slab' ledge. Popular but stupid! Some idiot 'removed' the bolt on the halfway ledge a few years ago!!

FA: C.Hale,M.Shipton, 1985

15
18 to 19 The Answer is Obvious Sport 20m

Rebolted June 2006 on rings. Good!

Start: Of the ledge to the left of the dead tree.

FA: C.Martin, 1985