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Description

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 Pompadour Sport 15m, 10

Thanks for the donation of the materials guys - you know who you are. Please make sure to keep off the vegetated ledge on the left (we'll call it an animal and plant refuge, shall we.) This route was originally a solo so bear that in mind whilst climbing it.

FA: C Martin, 1985

2
18 Hold on to Your Hats Sport 17m

Start: On the track 10m down and right from 'Trinity'.

FA: D.Noble, 1990

3

On carrots, there is a first one hiding above lip. SSCIG's rebotled 2004

FA: A. Farquar, 1989

4

One of the more popular Shipley routes. Rebolted 2004.

Start: The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down it's left side. This is it.

FA: C. Martin, A. Penney, 1985

5

Start: Through the choss beneath the overhang. On the giant Us.

FA: M.Law, 1994

6
24 * Pallets of Pies Sport 18m

Popular!

Start: Start under the big roof.

FA: C.Peisker, 1985

7

Avoids the crux on PoP by climbing right past two old carrots to a chain.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

8
28 X *** Argentine Deadline Sport 10m

Just right of POPV, out roof on really great rock, boulder and toe hook, slap and lob up to ancors of POPV.

Really great. ONLY ON COACH BOLTS!!! A death route unless the 1st ascentionist thinks it is worthy of proper equipping. He gives it 3*s but why would anyone bother unless it has decent achors in it? Dont 'sue' him just dont get on it unless you know you will not fall!

FA: B.Cossey, 2001

9
21 R * Gallows Humour Sport 18m

Start: At the far right end of the overhang. Starts on the block.

FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy, 1985

10
12 Papist Crop Sport 15m

10m right of Gallows Humour. Stump and wall right of corner

12

Start left of steps up roof.