In winter the first four routes here get the sun before 8 AM, if you're looking for a warmer warm up when the rest of the crag is still shaded.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The best easy sport route at the crag. All rings.

FA: C Martin, 1985

Rings, just to the right of Pompadour.

FA: D.Noble, 1990

Tucked just left of Sandwiches on carrots. The first is hidden just above the lip.

FA: A. Farquar, 1989

The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down its left side. This is it. High first bolt over the rooflet, then sustained climbing up the gently overhung orange wall. Popular.

FA: C. Martin & A. Penney, 1985

Through the choss beneath the overhang. On the giant U-bolts. Infrequently visited.

FA: M.Law, 1994

Steep and bouldery through the roof. Fun jugging.

FA: C.Peisker, 1985

Avoids the crux on PoP by climbing right past two old carrots to a chain.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Just right of POPV, out roof on really great rock, boulder and toe hook, slap and lob up to ancors of POPV. Coach bolts - beware.

FA: B.Cossey, 2001

At the far right end of the overhang. Starts on the block. A couple of nice roof moves and then it's done.

FA: C.Martin & J.Smoothy, 1985

To the right of the Pallets of Pies cave is a shorter and juggier section of vertical wall. This is best used as a bouldering area with a few fun traverses and up problems in the caves. Gets an hour or so of extra shade compared to the main wall. It's short enough and with good flat landings that a bouldering pad isn't really required. There are a lot of worn holds but not a lot of chalk apart from the major traverse line.

10m right of Gallows Humour. Stump and wall right of corner

Traverse left to right on the undercut chalked horizontal break. Popular.

Start left of steps up roof. Swing through the left side of the roof then either continue to the top on unpleasant ironstone (as per the original "route"), or traverse the lip, or reverse.

Set by Giles Bradbury?

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.


Check out what is happening in Sandwiches Wall.