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Description:© (secretary)

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: C. Peisker & T. Williams, 1986

Location:  

Located in Hot Flyer Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.271021,-33.638965

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
25(S) *** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
25 *** *** ACA Route Register
25(S) *** Blue Mountains Climbing
25M1 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
25,M1 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 85%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid tired crux sustained desperate pleasant super fun rad nice good amazing great enjoyable classic superb awesome feet rest interesting fingers crazy hands easy vertical undercling smooth traverse slabby

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