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Description:© (secretary)

A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains. Twisties added 2004.

Start: Middle route off the 4th access tree. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (ie the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish if you have good footwork, no regard for your fingertips, and skin to spare.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: C. Peisker & T. Williams, 1986

Location:  

Located in Hot Flyer Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.271021,-33.638965

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Principal
25(S) *** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
25(S) *** Blue Mountains Climbing
25 *** *** ACA Route Register
25,M1 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
25M1 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 85%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained desperate super fun rad nice good amazing great enjoyable classic superb awesome feet rest interesting fingers crazy hands easy vertical undercling smooth traverse slabby

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