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Description:© (secretary)

The original classic here. It's easy to get off route with four routes branching from the same start. This is the only one to finish up the headwall on FHs. A medium cam between bolt 6 and 7 is helpful (BD #1).

The anchor staples are now a bit worn. Lowering shackles added July 2016.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: M. Scheel & C. Martin, 1985


Located in Hot Flyer Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -33.638965,150.271021

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24 ** ** ACA Route Register
24 *** Blue Mountains Climbing
24 *** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
24 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
24 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 74%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux sustained desperate tough hard stoked super fun cool rad nice good great classic awesome tricky steep rest reachy fingers technical crimpy balancy short face easy bad jugs

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Check out what is happening on Language of Desire (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.