Sooty Crag Mostly Sport climbing13 routes in crag
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Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath
Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.
Best access as for Sunbath. Park at Balgravia St walk to Sunbath. Keep walking past The Block down steps thro "tunnel". At the bottom of the steps turn right (facing out) onto Valley Track. Follow this for approx. 200m until a sharp hairpin left. At hairpin continue ahead/rightish. The track is good but then seems to disappear at some ferns. Push ferns aside and keep following track until you cross the creek almost at cliff base. Keep walking right (facing out) (past creek) 200m to Sooty. GPS -33.668228972776085, 150.27503745680545
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
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