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Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.


Best access as for Sunbath. Park at Balgravia St walk to Sunbath. Keep walking past The Block down steps thro "tunnel". At the bottom of the steps turn right (facing out) onto Valley Track. Follow this for approx. 200m until a sharp hairpin left. At hairpin continue ahead/rightish. The track is good but then seems to disappear at some ferns. Push ferns aside and keep following track until you cross the creek almost at cliff base. Keep walking right (facing out) (past creek) 200m to Sooty. GPS -33.668228972776085, 150.27503745680545

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
22 ** Scorched Earth Sport 20m

FA: S. Bell, 2003


Initialled start. Climbed on natural gear originally. Now bolted by some-one who thought it was a new route!

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

23 ** Chimera Extension Sport 40m

Originally led on natural gear as one pitch of 40m. as Abbey Road Extension (not Chimera Extension)

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

20 ** Filed Away Sport 20m

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

24 *** Wildfire Sport 20m

FA: M. File, 2003

22 ** Vulcan Sport 25m

FA: S. Bell, 2003

19 * Soo Sport 25m

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

19 * Sweep Sport 25m

FA: M. Rofe, 2003


Climb to lower-offs at 20m, or continue to top.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

23 Updraft Sport 15m

FA: M. File, 2004

Project Sport

FA: S. Bell, 2000

16 ** Sooty Trad 25m

Requires gear to lower-offs.

FA: S. Bell, 2003

18 ** Chimera Sport 20m

Extention makes it 23 and gives it another *! And adds 15m!

FA: M. File, 2003


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