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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 * Scorched Earth Sport 20m

FA: S. Bell, 2003

2

Initialled start. Climbed on natural gear originally. Now bolted by some-one who thought it was a new route!

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

3
23 ** Chimera Extension Sport 40m

Originally led on natural gear as one pitch of 40m. as Abbey Road Extension (not Chimera Extension)

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

4
20 * Filed Away Sport 20m

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

5
24 *** Wildfire Sport 20m

FA: M. File, 2003

6
22 ** Vulcan Sport 25m

FA: S. Bell, 2003

7
19 * Soo Sport 25m

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

8
19 * Sweep Sport 25m

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

9

Climb to lower-offs at 20m, or continue to top.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

10
23 Updraft Sport 15m

FA: M. File, 2004

11
Project Sport

FA: S. Bell, 2000

12
16 ** Sooty Trad 25m

Requires gear to lower-offs.

FA: S. Bell, 2003

13
18 ** Chimera Sport 20m

Extention makes it 23 and gives it another *! And adds 15m!

FA: M. File, 2003

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