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Description

Latin for "situated below something else". This 60m high cliffline is located below the main cliffline of Sublime Point. It is mostly vertical on good grey rock, similar to parts of Piddington. It is very rarely visited.

Access issues inherited from West Face

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Approach

Descend the usual track to the main wall of Sublime Point (the Middle Cliffs). From the route Choc Chip Chai follow a faint/rough track steeply downwards for about 150m until the track veers right at top of cliffline. Instead of going right, bush bash left (south) above top of cliffline for about 50m to base of crag. The bottom of the crag is steep and vegetated, a bit tricky to walk around.

Ethic inherited from West Face

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

History

History is a bit of a mystery. There are a handful of recorded routes from the mid 60s, and some evidence of activity in the late 70s and 80s. There are three giant carrots with homeade hangers on the lower section of the wall right of Wide Open Space. Mikl and Giles deny it was them.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 Subdolate Trad 70m

Start at far left end of cliff. Somehow they turned a 70m cliff into a five pitch route.

  1. 7m (?) Hand traverse right under yellow overhang. Up on jug on nose. Up and right to belay.

  2. 6m (?) Onto block

  3. 33m (?) Up 6m to right of overhang. Left around overhang and up to ledge.

  4. 13m (?) Easy buttress on right

  5. 10m (?) Up

FA: B. Ryan, 1967

2
10 Subterranean Trad 83m

Start at middle of cliff (?) at chimney set well back on right side of big scoop.

  1. 7m (?) Ferny crack, step right and up nose.

  2. 11m (?) Right and up crack, right 3m, up then back across top of crack to big ledge.

  3. 12m (?) Scramble wide ledge and scrub to chimney.

  4. (?) Chimney until it narrows and out to crack. Up to within 2m of top. Left to finish.

FA: ?

3
9 Sublimation Unknown 50m
4
12 Substitution Unknown 37m
5
14 Subterfuge Direct Unknown 83m
6
10 Conscious Unknown 43m
7
9 Subconscious Unknown 47m
8
14 Submaxilla Unknown 55m
9
11 Subtle Unknown 45m
10

Landmark orange off-width corner in centre of crag. Stem baby stem (no thrutching required). Protected by a heady mix of bolts and trad. Bring doubles of every cam between #0.25 Camalot to the biggest you can find, and some slings. Save a green Camalot for the exciting very last move over the rooflet. Double rap rings at top - lowering off is possible. This route was originally climbed using homemade tubes in the heady days of the 70s. The direct finish over the rooflet was done in 2014.

FA: Greg Child, Chris Piesker, 1976

11
23 ** Reality Check Sport 20m, 8

Thin face on the wall right of Wide Open Space. Finish up right arete to lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2014